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Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship for semi-finished or finished jewelry. Learn how to evaluate the quality of a platinum ruthenium ring with channel-set diamonds in the shank that was sized up using a laser welder.

Side view of platinum solitaire. Design features a princess cut center stone set in v-prongs, two princess cut, bezel-set side stones in the gallery, and princess cut, channel-set stones down each side of the shank.

Finger hole is round

No pits or depressions in the weld joints on any surface

Original size, shape and shank dimensions were maintained

Shank contour is evenly proportioned and the ring is well finished, with no sharp areas

There are no tool marks

The piece exhibits a high, evenly bright luster with no color difference between the ring and the inserted piece

Perspective view of platinum solitaire. Design features a princess cut center stone set in v-prongs, two princess cut, bezel-set side stones in the gallery, and princess cut, channel-set stones down each side of the shank.

Ring size is accurate

Weld joints are not visible

No pits or depressions in the weld joints on any surface

Shank contour is evenly proportioned and the ring is well finished, with no sharp areas

There are no tool marks

There are no loose stones

Potential Problems and Engineering Features

Considerations When Sizing Up a Platinum Ruthenium Ring

Close-up view of five princess cut, channel-set stones located in the shank of the platinum solitaire.
Close-up view of five princess cut, channel-set stones located in the shank of the platinum solitaire.

Sizing up involves cutting the ring at the 6:00 location, spreading and reforming its sides, inserting a piece, and reconnecting

The princess-cut, channel-set side stones must have a slight amount of space between them. If they do not, they will collide and break during the shank-reforming process.

Chamfering allows penetration of laser energy to achieve a metallic bond at the joint’s core. Without chamfering, the laser energy would not penetrate deeply enough to bond the joint.

In this example, the ring ends and the edges of the inserted piece have been beveled, a process called chamfering

The shank was chamfered by sawing it, spreading it slightly, and then filing 45 degree angles on all edges

The inserted piece was chamfered on all sides

Both the ring and the inserted piece are a platinum ruthenium alloy

how-to video

Use a Laser Welder to Size Up Platinum Ruthenium with Diamonds in the Shank

play

Tool and Topic Related Info

Laser machines have different settings. Here is the general range of settings to use with platinum (as used in this project):

Practitioner seated at the laser welder, welding a platinum ring

Voltage: 210 to 230 volts (depends on the machine’s age and the degree of wear of its internal components)

Milliseconds: 4.0 milliseconds for general use. At the end, when smoothing, increase to 7.0 milliseconds.

Hertz: 2.0 hertz

Millimeters: Start with a smaller diameter at the 0.30 setting for best penetration, then gradually increase to 0.75 millimeters when filling. Lastly, use the widest setting at 0.90 to 1.10 for smoothing. This setting does not penetrate as deeply, so it smooths the surface.

Use a 28-gauge wire that matches the alloy of the ring

Featured Quality Assurance Benchmarks

Determine Finger and Ring Size

Learn how to determine finger and ring sizes accurately

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Refinish Worn Platinum Jewelry

Techniques for refinishing worn platinum jewelry

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Prefinish and Finish Platinum

Evaluate a prefinished, polished, and buffed platinum ring

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Set a Round in Platinum Prongs

Setting a round center stone in a ring with platinum prongs

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