Sizing Up: Platinum Ruthenium Rings with No Diamonds in the Shank Using a Torch

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished jewelry. Learn how to evaluate the quality of a platinum ruthenium ring with no diamonds in the shank that was sized up using a torch.

Side view of a platinum solitaire with no diamonds set in the shank

Ring is round

No excess solder at the joints

Finger size is accurate

Sizing joint is not visible

No pits in the solder joint

Oxidation removed from all portions of the ring

Perspective view of a platinum 4-prong solitaire with no diamonds set in the shank

Sizing joint is not visible

No pits in the solder joint

Quality and hallmark stamps are visible

Shank’s shape and original dimensions maintained

There are no tool marks and the piece is brightly polished and finished

Potential Problems and Engineering Features

Matching the Sizing Stock Alloy to the Ring Alloy

Solitaire ring setting without gemstone sitting next to a sizing wire with magnets above the wire

A piece of sizing stock is used to size a ring up. The alloy of the sizing wire must match the alloy of the ring. The size of the sizing stock depends upon how much larger the ring needs to be.

Too often, jewelers try to repurpose a section from a scrap platinum ring to size up another ring. Making a sizing piece from a scrap ring is not just time consuming; there’s also no guarantee that it’s the same alloy.

Using a matching alloy guarantees an exact color match. It’s also important because platinum cobalt and platinum ruthenium have different soldering and melting temperatures.