Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished jewelry. Learn how to evaluate the quality of a platinum alloy ring with diamonds in the shank that was sized up using a torch.

Perspective view of a platinum ring with diamonds set in the shank

Ring is round

Finger size is accurate

No excess solder around the solder joint

No pits or visible solder joints

Original shape and shank dimensions are maintained

Shank contour is evenly proportioned and the ring is well finished, with no sharp areas

No tool marks

Piece has a high, bright, even luster with no color difference between the added piece and the ring

No damage to the diamonds

All diamonds are tight and secure

Potential Problems and Engineering Features

Sizing Stock Alloy Options

Tweezers are used to insert platinum sizing stock into a ring held on a mandrel

The alloy mixture in this ring is specific to a design and manufacturing company in North America. It’s made of 950 platinum combined with ruthenium and palladium. In this case, it is necessary to get sizing stock directly from the company that uses this particular alloy, which is different from commercially available sizing stock.

It is vital to match the platinum alloy of the insert with the alloy mixture of the ring. Color, compatibility, and visibility of solder junctions are the common problems when alloys don’t match.

Jewelry manufacturers generally make platinum jewelry with commonly available platinum alloys. An internationally accepted standard for jewelry is a mixture purity of 95%, or 950 parts platinum and 50 parts other metal/metals.

The most common alloys are 950 platinum/50 ruthenium and 950 platinum/50 cobalt. There’s also a wide range of other mixtures.

How-to Video

Sizing Up a Platinum Alloy Ring with Diamonds in the Shank Using a Torch


Tool and Topic Related Info

After finishing, clean, steam, and inspect.

Jeweler inspecting a platinum solitaire with a loupe

Check the size and quality of workmanship against Quality Assurance Benchmark standards described above

Make sure that all polishing and finishing debris is removed from the ring

Even though the center stone was protected, check it for damage

Featured Quality Assurance Benchmarks

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