Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished jewelry. Learn how to evaluate the quality of a platinum alloy ring with diamonds in the shank that was sized up using a torch.
Ring is round
Finger size is accurate
No excess solder around the solder joint
No pits or visible solder joints
Original shape and shank dimensions are maintained
Shank contour is evenly proportioned and the ring is well finished, with no sharp areas
No tool marks
Piece has a high, bright, even luster with no color difference between the added piece and the ring
No damage to the diamonds
All diamonds are tight and secure
Potential Problems and Engineering Features
Sizing Stock Alloy Options
The alloy mixture in this ring is specific to a design and manufacturing company in North America. It’s made of 950 platinum combined with ruthenium and palladium. In this case, it is necessary to get sizing stock directly from the company that uses this particular alloy, which is different from commercially available sizing stock.
It is vital to match the platinum alloy of the insert with the alloy mixture of the ring. Color, compatibility, and visibility of solder junctions are the common problems when alloys don’t match.
Jewelry manufacturers generally make platinum jewelry with commonly available platinum alloys. An internationally accepted standard for jewelry is a mixture purity of 95%, or 950 parts platinum and 50 parts other metal/metals.
The most common alloys are 950 platinum/50 ruthenium and 950 platinum/50 cobalt. There’s also a wide range of other mixtures.
Sizing Up a Platinum Alloy Ring with Diamonds in the Shank Using a Torch