Sizing Down Platinum Rings
Sizing Up Platinum Rings
Sizing up a platinum ruthenium ring using a laser welder
Sizing down a platinum cobalt ring using a laser welder
Techniques for refinishing worn platinum jewelry
Evaluate a prefinished, polished, and buffed platinum ring
Assembly of a PtCo Pear-Shape to a 14K Yellow Gold Mounting
Install a PtRu Peg Setting into a 14K Yellow Gold Mounting
Learn the characteristics of common platinum alloys
Working with Platinum: Tools and How To Avoid Contamination
When placed on a finger, the ring must pass the finger joint
Ring remains upright and does not turn freely
Ring does not come off easily
Sizing a ring requires an accurate measurement of the customer’s finger or ring
Finger-sizing gauges are used to determine finger size. They are marked in whole and half sizes. The narrow-finger sizing gauge measures fingers for narrow rings such as solitaire rings or narrow bands (up to 4 mm in width).
Finger-sizing gauges are also available with convex inner surfaces
Wide-finger sizing gauges are used to determine finger size for wide rings such as fashion rings and wide bands (over 4 mm in width)
The size of a customer’s ring is determined using a ring sizing stick or ring mandrel made of tapered wood, plastic, or aluminum that is marked in quarter, half, and full-size increments (These increments equate to inside diameter increases of approximately 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm and 0.8 mm respectively).
To do sizing work, bench jewelers use a steel ring mandrel made of tapered, milled steel; and marked in quarter, half, and whole sizes (0.2 mm, 0.4 mm and 0.8 mm, inside diameter respectively).
All finger-sizing gauges, ring sticks, and ring mandrels must be calibrated to one another so measured sizes are consistent throughout a retail store, a trade shop, or a manufacturing company
Calibration of tools is important for operations with multiple locations, such as a retail store that sends work to a trade shop, or manufacturing companies that do special orders or custom work for retailers
Always check if a mounted gemstone’s culet protrudes into the finger hole. If it does, a ring-sizing stick or mandrel with a groove must be used to prevent damage to the stone.
Sizing or handling a ring with an exposed culet is not advisable. This is considered a design flaw and a jeweler cannot safely and accurately size the ring without risk of damage. In this situation, consider an alteration, a change of setting, or a remount.
To size a ring for a customer, measure the finger using a ring-sizing gauge with a width that most closely matches the finger
The correct size should be just loose enough to pass over the finger joint and settle at the position on the finger where the ring will be worn
Gently slide the finger-sizing gauge onto the customer’s finger. Never force it over the joint.
Every hand is unique. Judge each fitting on a case-by-case basis to determine what ring size is most comfortable for the customer.
Allow the customer to put the finger-sizing gauge on and take it off
Because fingers swell and contract, a finger size should be taken on three different occasions to confirm the measurement
Alternate between sizes in the event that the customer wants the finished ring to fit snugly or loosely
Record the size on the job envelope, along with any special instructions, such as requests to preserve special engraving
Be sure to indicate the finger for which the ring is being sized
Sometimes, a customer wants to check the size of a ring that fits comfortably. To take these measurements, use a ring stick or mandrel.
For accuracy, be sure the new ring is the same shape or configuration as the sample ring. Determine if the ring being measured is round. If the shape is distorted, gently round it with a rawhide or nylon hammer on a steel-ring mandrel before determining size.
Slide the ring gently onto the ring stick until it is snug, but do not force it as the measurement could be inaccurate
This customer’s ring is a size 6.75 (17.1 mm inside diameter).
To measure a finger for a solitaire or band of even width (1 to 4 mm), use the narrow finger-sizing gauges
On the ring stick, read the ring size at the line on the stick where it touches the central point of the width. This example is a size 9.0 (19.0 mm inside diameter).
Use narrow gauges to measure tapered rings from 5 to 7 mm at the widest area to a narrower width of 2 to 3 mm
Determine the size at the line where the central point of the narrowest part of the ring touches the ring stick. The narrowest part of the ring might be the top or the bottom of the shank. This ring is size 5.25 (15.9 mm inside diameter).
Determine the size at the line where the central point of the narrowest part of the ring touches the ring stick. The narrowest part of the ring might be the top or the bottom of the shank. This ring is size 6.50 (16.9 mm inside diameter).
To measure a ring wider than 4 mm, use the wide-finger sizing gauges. Do not force the finger-sizing gauge over the joint.
Wide rings have more metal that contacts the skin, and fit more tightly on the hand
On a ring stick, the size is determined at the line on the mandrel that touches the central point of the ring’s width. In this example, the band is a size 7 (17.3 mm inside diameter).
Wide rings might need to be one-half to one full size (approximately 0.4 mm to 0.8 mm US finger size inside diameter) larger than narrow rings, depending on the finger joint size and the customer’s comfort.
Even if a customer feels they know their ring size, always check it. This tapered ring is a size 6.75 (17.1 mm inside diameter).
Bridal sets wider than 4 or 5 mm when the band and engagement ring are worn together require special consideration
To prevent loss or damage before the rings are joined together, the engagement ring might have to be adjusted while being worn alone
Measure the bride-to-be’s finger using a wide-finger sizing gauge. However, rings worn individually might be loose, especially when her hands are cold.
When the rings are soldered together, they can be resized as a unit. However, this means there is potential for an additional sizing joint on the engagement ring.
Convex interiors of rings or bands are beveled inward from the edges of the shank
To fit a ring with a convex inside shank, use the narrow-finger sizing gauge
Determine the size at the point where the center of the ring or band touches the sizing stick. Then measure one-quarter size smaller.
Size the ring one-quarter size smaller than the measured finger size. For example, if the size 7 (17.3 mm inside diameter) gauge fits, size the ring to a 6.75 (17.1 mm inside diameter).
In these examples, the flat-top band is a size 5.5 (16.1 mm inside diameter) and the half-round band is a 6.75 (17.1 mm inside diameter).
These rings have less metal in contact with the finger. Because they fit the hand more loosely, they will need to be sized smaller. The size adjustment depends on the distance between the ends of the shank and the opening.
To fit a ring with space between the top of the finger and the mounting, use the appropriate finger-sizing gauge (narrow for shanks less than 4 mm wide and wide for those greater than 4 mm wide). If the opening is 3 mm to 5 mm, subtract at least a quarter-size from the measured ring size.
Determine the size at the point where the center of the narrowest part of the ring touches the ring stick. Then adjust the size according to the width of the opening at the top of the shank. With the opening at the top, this ring will fit a size 5.75 (16.3 mm inside diameter), not a 5.5 (16.1 mm inside diameter).
Every hand is unique. When measuring fingers and fitting rings, there may be special situations. Judge these on a case-by-case basis to determine what is most comfortable for the customer. Options exist for rings that cannot be sized or that are worn temporarily.
Although sizing beads can be a potential solution for keeping a ring from turning on the finger, they do not always satisfy customers. They take up about a half- size of space and tend to be uncomfortable to wear.
Soldering two small beads onto the inside of a ring shank is the simplest way to keep a ring from turning when the finger is 1.5 (1.2 mm US finger size inside diameter) or more sizes larger than the area where the ring sits.
Installing a spring insert is an excellent way to keep a ring sitting straight on a finger. The spring, made of highly tensioned platinum, resembles a horseshoe and will hold the ring snugly. It is flexible and comfortable to wear, making it superior to sizing beads.
To maintain the tension or springiness of the insert, use a laser welder to install it. Using a torch will anneal the spring.
Sizing down a platinum cobalt ring using a torch
Setting a round center stone in a ring with platinum prongs