Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished jewelry. Learn how to evaluate the quality of a platinum ruthenium ring with diamonds in the shank that was sized down using a torch.

Illustration of platinum solitaire, featuring a round brilliant center stone set with six prongs and round brilliant channel-set stones down each side of the shank

Ring is round.

There is no excess solder.

Finger size is accurate.

Sizing joint is not visible, and there are no pits in the solder joint.

Illustration of platinum solitaire, featuring a round brilliant center stone set with six prongs and round brilliant channel-set stones down each side of the shank

There is no excess solder.

Sizing joint is not visible, and there are no pits in the solder joint.

No stones were loosened or damaged in the sizing process.

The shank’s shape and original dimensions were maintained.

There are no tool marks, and the piece is brightly polished and finished.

Illustration of underside of platinum solitaire, featuring a round brilliant center stone set with six prongs and round brilliant channel-set stones down each side of the shank

There is no excess solder.

Sizing joint is not visible, and there are no pits in the solder joint.

Potential Problems and Engineering Features

Problems can occur during normal wear if quality benchmarks are not followed.

Illustration depicting one wide band and one tapered band

Prior to soldering, the joints must be flush and in full contact. The shank must be evenly joined when aligning the solder joint.

Platinum solder will not fill gaps or conceal improperly fitted joints. Solder filled gaps in a joint are weak, and evident as dark visible lines, indentations, voids and pits.

Close-up Illustration of two poorly joined shanks

If a joint is uneven, too much metal will be removed, resulting in an uneven shank when finished. Filing to even out a misaligned shank will result in smaller dimensions.

Illustration of a ring on a ring mandrel. An arrow is pointing to the 6:00 location on the ring, where the ring size would be read.

When placed on a ring mandrel, the ring size must be read at the center of the shank at the 6:00 location. This is especially important for wider rings.

Illustration of three rings of varying thickness on a ring mandrel

Shanks for platinum rings should be somewhat thicker than shanks for rings made of nickel-based white gold alloy.

Illustration depicting a platinum solitaire being lightly buffed

Platinum shanks with proper dimensions are structurally stable and hold their shape during normal wear.

To best maintain dimensions of platinum rings, use burnishing and light buffing to remove scratches. This process is superior because filing or other abrasive work will make the shanks smaller.

Illustration of a platinum solitaire with diamonds set in the shank

Platinum ring mountings set with diamonds below the 3:00 and 9:00 locations should never be soldered with a torch.

Diamonds begin to oxidize in air if heated above 700° C, which is below the melt and flow points of platinum solder. Diamonds that have oxidized show a frosty white appearance and require repolishing by a diamond cutter.

Illustration of a platinum ring showing a cold solder joint in the middle of the band

Cold solder joints are the result of insufficient heating and poor torch technique during the soldering process. The cold joint results when the solder does not bond with the parent material. A cold joint is likely to break open during normal wear.

How-to Video

Sizing Down a Platinum Ruthenium Ring with Diamonds using a Torch

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