Gem News International Gems & Gemology, Spring 2024, Vol. 60, No. 1

Phenomenal Emeralds from Chitral, Pakistan


Cat’s-eye emerald (11.31 ct) and star emerald (4.99 ct) from Chitral, Pakistan. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat; courtesy of Mohammed Ayub (Pretty Little Gem Co, Ltd, Bangkok).
Cat’s-eye emerald (11.31 ct) and star emerald (4.99 ct) from Chitral, Pakistan. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat; courtesy of Mohammed Ayub (Pretty Little Gem Co, Ltd, Bangkok).

In November 2023, GIA researchers had the chance to study a parcel of emeralds reportedly from Chitral in Pakistan. All of the stones matched previously documented characteristics of emeralds from Chitral (C.S. Hanser et al., “Comparison of emeralds from the Chitral District, Pakistan, with other Pakistani and Afghan emeralds,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 38, No. 6, 2023, pp. 582–599).

Among the stones were two cabochons that showed unusual phenomena: chatoyancy and asterism (see above). Both had a refractive index of 1.57 (spot reading) and a yellowish green to green color, which identified them as emerald.

Cat’s-eye emeralds are found in a number of locations, most notably Brazil and Colombia. The effect is caused by large concentrations of fine parallel tubes. Proper orientation of these linear features during cutting can result in a sharp, centered cat’s-eye when the tubes reflect light.

Star emeralds are even rarer, with most originating from Brazil and Madagascar. The effect is usually caused by very small thin films that reflect light. The proper orientation of the cabochon dome with respect to tiny platelets can result in a six-rayed star that moves across the curved surface of the stone. In this emerald, some of the platelets that create the lower left arm are highlighted by iridescent reflective colors.

To our knowledge, these are the first phenomenal emeralds from Chitral, and they offer prime examples of lesser-known phenomenal emeralds.

Wim Vertriest is manager of field gemology at GIA in Bangkok.