Gem News International Gems & Gemology, Spring 2023, Vol. 59, No. 1

Sean Hill: Exquisite Jewelry Designs

Jennifer Stone-Sundberg and Si Athena Chen

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Figure 1. The “Seven Sisters” ring in 18K gold with 17 bezel-set diamonds (0.55 carats total) and 22 sapphires ranging in size from 2.5 to 4.0 mm in blue, orange, mandarin, pink, and green (3.15 carats total). Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Sean Hill Designs.
 
Figure 1. The “Seven Sisters” ring in 18K gold with 17 bezel-set diamonds (0.55 carats total) and 22 sapphires ranging in size from 2.5 to 4.0 mm in blue, orange, mandarin, pink, and green (3.15 carats total). Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Sean Hill Designs.

At the GJX show, Sean Hill of Tucson presented some striking jewelry designs with masterful control of shape and line. A gold ring set with diamond, blue sapphire, and fancy-color sapphire (figure 1) drew us into his booth. Dr. Hill, a self-taught jeweler, has been active designing and handcrafting jewelry since 1998, after a previous career as a university professor in literature and philosophy. His academic and philosophical nature is immediately evident when discussing design, and his meticulous attention to space and volume becomes more apparent the longer one studies his pieces. The “Seven Sisters” ring in figure 1 raises each stone to a unique height above the flat base, filling the rectangle with an appealing placement of 17 colorless diamonds interspersed among 22 sapphires.

Figure 2. “Rose Cut” 18K white gold and diamond earrings. The faceted diamonds are 1.5–2.0 mm in diameter. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Sean Hill Designs.
 
Figure 2. “Rose Cut” 18K white gold and diamond earrings. The faceted diamonds are 1.5–2.0 mm in diameter. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Sean Hill Designs.

A stunning pair of 18K white gold earrings featuring both diamond slices and faceted diamonds (figure 2) is a case study in filling a plain geometric shape to bring it to life. As Dr. Hill said in describing the piece, “A rectangle is a basic shape, a self-imposed constraint. It is how you choose to fill it that makes it interesting.” Adding to the design quality, the rectangles are not actually flat but gently curved so that the earrings fit seamlessly on the ear. 

Figure 3. “Event Horizon” earrings in 18K gold, diamond (0.07 carats total), and orange, mandarin, pink, green, and blue sapphire (5.2 carats total). Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Sean Hill Designs.
 
Figure 3. “Event Horizon” earrings in 18K gold, diamond (0.07 carats total), and orange, mandarin, pink, green, and blue sapphire (5.2 carats total). Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Sean Hill Designs.

A pair of 18K gold earrings with brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphires (figure 3) illustrates a modern and considered take on the classic chandelier earring, with squares and rectangles outlining floating round gems on delicate strings of gold. Dr. Hill explained some of his jewelry philosophy: “You can always take a stone for its beauty, color, and cut, set it into a finding, and it is all about the stone. But how do you make it into art?”

Jennifer Stone-Sundberg is senior technical editor, and Si Athena Chen is associate technical editor, for Gems & Gemology at GIA in Carlsbad, California.