质量保证基准重点强调半成品和成品铂金珠宝的工艺。 这些例子展示了用来评估铂金镶爪和镶座的质量和坚固性的方法。

两枚铂金单石戒指的侧视图
Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

该主石的尺寸非常适合镶嵌,既不太小也不太大

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

镶爪由上下的边箍固定,无法移动,从而提高宝石的安全性

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

镶爪以 70 度倾斜,减少了从顶部看到的金属量

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

镶爪拥有固定的比例和足够大的尺寸,并由铂合金制成,以获取足够大的硬度

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

这些镶爪远比镍基白金镶爪大

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

依据宝石镶嵌基准,镶爪长度足以符合适当标准

分裂款戒圈且戒圈上镶嵌了钻石的铂金单石戒侧面图
Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

该主石的尺寸非常适合镶嵌,既不太小也不太大

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

镶爪均呈 90 度角

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

这些镶爪呈锥形;其底部宽,顶部小。 这种设计可提供很好的支持,并最大限度地减少镶爪移动。

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

线状图案为镶爪提供了额外支持

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

这些镶爪远比镍基白金镶爪大

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

依据宝石镶嵌基准,镶爪长度足以符合适当标准

潜在问题与工程特征

在这个例子中,一位销售人员出售了一颗未镶嵌的钻石和一个铂金戒指底座

Perspective view of a platinum solitaire with diamonds set in the shank. This same ring is also shown in a side view, with the loose diamond positioned above the mounting.
Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

此镶座专为 0.50 克拉的中心钻石而设计

Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished platinum jewelry. Consumers are more satisfied with their jewelry when diamonds or other stones do not loosen or become dislodged. These two examples illustrate methods for evaluating the quality and durability of platinum prongs and settings.

这是我们库存的最后一个这种镶座,最初是用来镶嵌小得多的钻石。 但是,销售人员承诺会在当天晚些时候准备好戒指,然后说服店内的镶工师傅将更大的钻石镶嵌在这个小镶座上。

Close-up side view of the platinum solitaire, with the loose stone positioned above the mounting.
In this example, a sales associate has sold a loose diamond and a platinum ring mounting.

为了满足对快速周转和更大颗钻石的需求,珠宝商被迫向外推动镶爪来改变镶座

In this example, a sales associate has sold a loose diamond and a platinum ring mounting.

边箍能够增强镶嵌的稳定性。 这种镶嵌没有边箍,可能会造成镶爪移动,加大了宝石脱落的风险。

Close-up side view of the platinum solitaire, with the loose stone set into the too-small setting.
In this example, a sales associate has sold a loose diamond and a platinum ring mounting.

这颗钻石被镶嵌在太小的镶座中。 由于镶爪被展开,用来固定镶嵌的金属所剩无几。

In this example, a sales associate has sold a loose diamond and a platinum ring mounting.

将镶爪延伸得太远会破坏其结构。 它们现在很容易被向外弯曲得过远,从而造成宝石脱落。

In this example, a sales associate has sold a loose diamond and a platinum ring mounting.

镶爪与冠部的接触面进行了最小化。 这种镶嵌很容易造成宝石脱落。

这个铂金镶座采用压模技术打造而成。 这些镶爪由压模从片料中切下,进行组装,然后用电炉进行焊接。 制造完成后,使用焊炬将它们焊接至镶座。

Perspective view of die-struck platinum solitaire
This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

铂金冲压部件通常由最初用来设计镍基白金产品的冲模制成。 由专门用来设计白金产品的冲模制成的镶爪太薄。 它们会在制造和正常佩戴的过程中移动。

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

具有类似数量的基本金属时,铂合金呈现更好的可塑性,不像镍基白金合金那么坚硬。 铂金的众多优良属性之一是其可塑性。 折叠或弯曲后,它不像白金一样会弹回。

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

当冲压镶座被焊接至戒指后,通常会导致对镶爪金属进行热锻处理,让其可塑性更好,更易于移动

现实生活中的后果:这是一个真实的故事,但细节部分有所出入。 一位零售商设计并制作了一个专门定制的铂金镶座,用来镶嵌 22.50 克拉的圆形明亮式钻石。 这枚戒指由 90% 的铂金和 10% 的铱全手工打造而成,这是所有铂合金中最柔软、可塑性最好的合金之一。

Close-up view of a platinum solitaire setting of the 22.50 carat stone, with the prongs set with baguettes.
This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

镶爪接触面非常少

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

需要将镶爪挖空来镶嵌小长方钻。 不得不移除大部分结构性支撑,以确保宝石安全。

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

镶嵌和戒指镶托中使用了最少金属

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

该镶爪的倾斜角度非常大,使得镶爪在日常佩戴过程中很容易弯向外侧

Close-up view of a platinum solitaire setting of a 22.50 carat stone, with the prongs set with baguettes.
This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

在正常佩戴后头几个小时内,戒指上方遭到碰撞,22.50 克拉的中心钻石居然脱落了!并没有使用很大的冲击力,镶爪也没有移动,镶座就打开了,导致钻石掉落。

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

冲击力迫使钻石向下移动,反过来又将镶爪推向外侧,从而使钻石脱落。 镶爪接触面不足导致了钻石脱落。

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

低层的边箍提供的支持很少

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

铂金镶爪没有记忆,这表示其弯曲后就不会弹回。 没有金属记忆且具有适当尺寸的镶爪变得炙手可热,因为不具有弹性可以增强宝石的安全性。

This platinum setting is made using a process called die-striking. The prongs are cut away from sheet-stock by a die, assembled, and then oven-soldered. Once they are made, they are torch-soldered into the ring mounting.

陡峭的角度让镶爪很容易向外弯曲。 此外,所有镶爪都被挖空,方便镶嵌小长方钻,这进一步削弱了其结构的稳定性。

现实生活中的后果:和使用了特定规格以实现安全镶嵌的戒指相比,这款戒指最初的定制镶座设计显示出了极大的脆弱性。 对于要镶嵌 22.5 克拉钻石的镶座来说,应尽量降低宝石脱落的可能性。

Two illustrations side-by-side: the first is the original ring’s mounting, and the second a mounting illustrating the parameters for a secure setting, including proper prong contact, prong angle, and gallery height.

此图描绘了戒指最初的镶嵌情况。 镶爪的接触面仅为 12%,同时镶爪倾斜角度仅为 55 度。 上方的边箍为镶爪提供了最小的结构支撑。

GIA
Two illustrations side-by-side: the first is the original ring’s mounting, and the second a mounting illustrating the parameters for a secure setting, including proper prong contact, prong angle, and gallery height.

此图描绘了实现安全镶嵌的参数。 镶爪的接触面为 25%,同时镶爪倾斜角度为 62 度。 上方的边箍为镶爪提供了足够的结构支撑。

GIA

专业质量保证基准

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