Gem News International Gems & Gemology, Spring 2023, Vol. 59, No. 1

YNY Jewels: Designer Surbhi Pandya


Figure 1. Surbhi’s “Orient” earrings with tanzanite carvings surrounded by blue sapphires, emeralds, white diamonds, and tsavorite garnets with an upper flower-shaped dangle composed of faceted tanzanites, emeralds, and pink sapphires, all set in 18K white gold. The total diamond weight for the pair is 1.60 carats, and the total colored stone weight is 62.23 carats, 48.32 carats of which are from the two tanzanite carvings. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc. and Karats Inc.
Figure 1. Surbhi’s “Orient” earrings with tanzanite carvings surrounded by blue sapphires, emeralds, white diamonds, and tsavorite garnets with an upper flower-shaped dangle composed of faceted tanzanites, emeralds, and pink sapphires, all set in 18K white gold. The total diamond weight for the pair is 1.60 carats, and the total colored stone weight is 62.23 carats, 48.32 carats of which are from the two tanzanite carvings. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc. and Karats Inc.

A dazzling pair of carved tanzanite earrings (figure 1) caught our attention at the GJX show. Designer Surbhi Pandya of YNY Jewels (New York), who goes by the single name Surbhi, described the significance of the carving featured on each of the large unheated tanzanite crystals. Depicted in violet and green is the lotus blossom, a flower with ancient cultural significance in India, rising with its deep roots from the mud without stains, symbolizing purity and strength. As the blossoms close up at night and reopen the next day, they also symbolize rebirth. Each carving is immediately surrounded by a ring of blue Kashmir sapphires and emeralds, followed by colorless diamonds and bright green tsavorite garnets. Each upper dangle contains faceted slices of tanzanite and emerald with a central hot pink sapphire. She also shared a pendant with a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite similarly containing a lotus carving (figure 2). She explained that the paisley shape represents continuity and life.

Figure 2. An 18K white gold pendant containing a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite with a lotus blossom carving, surrounded by pavé-set black diamonds and pink and purple princess-cut Sri Lankan sapphires. The total weight of the diamonds is 1.00 carats, and the colored stones total 23.40 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc.
Figure 2. An 18K white gold pendant containing a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite with a lotus blossom carving, surrounded by pavé-set black diamonds and pink and purple princess-cut Sri Lankan sapphires. The total weight of the diamonds is 1.00 carats, and the colored stones total 23.40 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc.
Figure 3. Designer Surbhi. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.
Figure 3. Designer Surbhi. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.

Surbhi (figure 3) has been making jewelry for 20 years and was trained by her father, Yogendra Sethi, a renowned artist in India. She described designing jewelry as a journey filled with energy. She does not make jewelry to please herself, but out of a drive to create things that speak to others. Surbhi shared stories of customers’ deeply personal connections with her jewelry, a profoundly rewarding experience for her as an artist.

Jennifer Stone-Sundberg is senior technical editor, and Si Athena Chen is associate technical editor, for Gems & Gemology at GIA in Carlsbad, California.