Gem News International Gems & Gemology, Spring 2019, Vol. 55, No. 1

Jeffrey Bilgore Gems and Jewelry Designs


Cushion-cut dark blue unheated cobalt spinel.
Figure 1. This exceptional 10.02 ct 15.4 × 12.0 mm cushion-cut dark blue cobalt spinel is unheated. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Jeffrey Bilgore and John Bachman.

Jeffrey Bilgore is both a prominent gem dealer and an award-winning jewelry designer, and at his AGTA booth we found examples of exotic gems and exquisite jewelry. Among these was one of the most notable cobalt spinel gems we have encountered (figure 1). Displayed between two similarly sized blue sapphires, the unheated spinel was almost indistinguishable from them. A stunning fire opal and Russian demantoid garnet pin with tsavorite garnets and yellow diamonds (figure 2) also caught our attention, a testament to the artistry of Bilgore’s work.

Fire Opal and Russian Demantoid Garnet Pin
Figure 2. A fire opal and Russian demantoid garnet pin designed and produced by Jeffrey Bilgore. The piece contains five carved fire opal leaves (18.74 carats total), four demantoid garnets (0.40 carats total), seven tsavorite garnets (0.17 carats total), a 0.20 ct pear-shaped Fancy Intense yellow diamond, and five additional yellow round diamonds (0.03 carats total), set in platinum. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

Jennifer Stone-Sundberg is a research scientist at GIA in New York, and a technical editor of Gems & Gemology.