Diamond Care and Cleaning Guide
Durability is a gemstone’s ability to withstand wear, heat and chemicals. Durability consists of three properties: hardness, toughness and stability. Hardness means how well a gemstone resists scratches and abrasion. Toughness describes how well a gemstone resists breaking and chipping. Stability means how well a diamond resists chemicals and temperature changes.
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The scale originated in 1812 when German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs chose ten minerals and assigned numbers to them, based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one could be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s much harder than gems in the corundum family. Only a diamond can scratch a diamond.
Something the Mohs scale doesn’t show, but that’s equally important to the diamond industry, is that diamond can also scratch any of the precious metals used for settings. That means a diamond that’s loose in its setting can wear through a prong over time.
Any stone, including a diamond, will break if it’s hit hard enough in the right place. Toughness is a measure of how well a gem can survive an impact and resist breaking, chipping or cracking.
Diamonds are tougher in the directions where the atoms are bonded tightly together and less tough where they’re not so tightly bonded.
The weakest directions are the ones where the atoms are furthest apart. It’s easier to break a diamond in those directions, which are called cleavage directions. A cutter can cleave a diamond by hitting it sharply in the cleavage direction. But even after cutting, a hard blow can still cleave a diamond. This can happen during the setting process, or even when it’s being worn.
Stability is a term that describes how well a diamond resists temperature changes and chemicals. Diamonds are very stable. They’re invulnerable to virtually all acids, for one thing. The cutting process generates a lot of heat, but diamonds usually endure intact. Situations that are more threatening to a diamond’s stability are those that involve sudden and extreme temperature changes. Those changes can cause thermal shock and create new fractures and cleavages or cause existing ones to spread.
Diamonds will burn at about 1562°F (850°C). House fires and jewellers’ torches can reach that temperature.
Diamonds can be cleaned safely with lint-free cloths, commercial jewellery cleaning solutions, and household detergents.
Harsher cleaning methods are not recommended for home use. These include powdered abrasive household cleansers, ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaners.