Book Review: Jewelry for Gentlemen
Style icon Iris Apfel said, “Transformation, punch, individuality. One or all of the above are why you should wear jewelry.” Any fashion-alert gentleman will be emboldened to do so after perusing James Sherwood’s latest book, Jewelry for Gentlemen.
One of the most arresting aspects of the book is the author’s choice of exactingly illustrated brooches and pins on gentlemen’s blazers and jackets. Repeating that concept throughout the book gradually impresses upon the male reader “Yes, you can wear that.” A Fabergé openwork diamond bow brooch accenting the line of a lapel lessens the typically feminine aspect of the bow form. Expanding the premise of men’s jewelry is the dramatic photo of contemporary jewelry designer Shanu Leane’s Tahitian pearl “Thistle” brooch piercing a black satin lapel. Leane designed it for a dear friend, the late fashion designer Alexander McQueen—reinforcing the personal aspect of jewelry.
Sherwood judiciously quotes the designers featured in the book. The David Yurman section, represented by the powerful style of key creative leader (and David’s son) Evan Yurman, reflects the latter’s philosophy: “I think every man should embrace wearing jewelry in his daily life.” The power of the very presence of Evan Yurman’s pieces is illustrated by various collections. The force of the 18K yellow gold Forged Carbon cuff links along with photos of pieces in the “Shipwreck” collection—suggesting jewelry art as deep-sea sunken treasures—really does convey “transformation, punch, individuality.”
Jewelry houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Cartier, and Hemmerle are represented mainly with pins and brooches to reinforce the premise of going beyond the norms of rings, cuff links, bracelets, and chains. But Sherwood does honor these classic categories of gentlemen’s jewelry. He has chosen, with care, photos of elegant cuff links executed as sculptured gold forms in Verdura’s “Nut & Bolts” and Elsa Peretti’s “Golden Circle” cuff links.
The gemstone-set items in the high-quality photographs are eye-catching and inspiring. Donald Claflin’s “Aztec” brooch, a pair of Fabergé ruby and enamel cuff links, and a Lacloche Frères platinum and diamond brooch all cause the eye to linger on the pages.
The standard inclusion of a glossary and brief descriptions of design elements of jewelry style periods are appreciated and expected. These references lend a certain sturdy scholarly aspect to a beautiful book. Regrettably, Sherwood’s seeming fascination with gentlemen’s sexuality as revealed in jewelry choices or styles detracts from a nicely executed, precisely documented work.
Jewelry for Gentlemen serves as a memorable travelogue of style as interpreted in our oh-so-personal choices—perhaps a sentimental ring, a few chains, and a dapper pair of cuff links.
