Sizing Up: Platinum Alloy Ring with Diamonds in the Shank Using a Torch

Finger size is accurate

No excess solder around the solder joint

No pits or visible solder joints

Original shape and shank dimensions are maintained

Shank contour is evenly proportioned and the ring is well finished, with no sharp areas

No tool marks

Piece has a high, bright, even lustre with no colour difference between the added piece and the ring

No damage to the diamonds

All diamonds are tight and secure

It is vital to match the platinum alloy of the insert with the alloy mixture of the ring. Colour, compatibility and the visibility of solder junctions are common problems when alloys don’t match.

Jewellery manufacturers generally make platinum jewellery with commonly available platinum alloys. An internationally accepted standard for jewellery is a mixture purity of 95%, or 950 parts platinum and 50 parts other metal/metals.

The most common alloys are 950 platinum/50 ruthenium and 950 platinum/50 cobalt. There’s also a wide range of other mixtures.

Make sure that all polishing and finishing debris is removed from the ring

Even though the centre stone was protected, check it for damage