Special Jewellery Collection Showcases Innovative Designs and Techniques

Amanda J. Luke

August 3, 2015

This mokume gane pendant, made of patinaed copper and 14K yellow, red and grey gold, hangs on a black tourmaline crystal bead and 22K gold rondel necklace. Mokume gane is a technique used to layer metals. Created by George Sawyer. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, gift of George Sawyer.
This mokume gane pendant, made of patinaed copper and 14K yellow, red and grey gold, hangs on a black tourmaline crystal bead and 22K gold rondel necklace. Mokume gane is a technique used to layer metals. Created by George Sawyer.
Members of the American Jewelry Design Council (AJDC) donated a collection of 29 contemporary jewellery pieces to the GIA Museum in 2004 − the first formal collection of jewellery given to the Institute.

“This was a nice injection of new, all American-made, contemporary jewellery,” said McKenzie Santimer, manager of exhibition designs for the GIA Museum. “It was a significant donation to GIA because the jewellery collection is not as comprehensive as the gem and mineral collection.”

The AJDC, like GIA, is a non-profit educational organisation, and is composed of highly respected American jewellery designers, including GIA graduates, who focus on raising awareness of the artistry of fine jewellery.

Jose Hess, one of the founding members of the AJDC, was very grateful so many members created pieces for this special collection for GIA. “It’s a great advantage to be able to talk about design and demonstrate what it is in GIA’s home,” he said.

Many of the designers who donated pieces are award-winning, innovative jewellery designers, according to Santimer. The collection consists of classic signature pieces that capture the designers' aesthetics and techniques, including unusual pioneering techniques, such as a mokume gane (which looks like sandwiched metal) piece, a Steven Kretchmer tension-set diamond and a faceted Tahitian pearl, which was a new technique at the time.

“There are some unusual, eclectic gems,” she said. “Although the AJDC is more known for metalsmithing and the craftsmanship of their work, there are significant gemstones contained in this collection, such as a large Ukranian helidor, drusy quartz, a variety of fancy-cut tourmalines, rough schorl tourmalines and a brown diamond.”

The "Flagship I" brooch features a very fine white drusy agate with brown dendrites, a South Sea pearl, 11.8mm round brilliant diamonds and 18K gold and platinum. The drusy was cut and carved by Dieter Lorenz of Germany and the design by is Susan Helmich. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, gift of Susan Helmich Designs, Inc.
Santimer said the pieces represent very creative and out-of-the-box thinking − a lifelike orchid brooch, a convertible brooch/pendant and an adjustable ring − and are often taken into the Jewelry Design and Technology classrooms to show students real-life work.

“I think it is a great opportunity for students to see unusual designs. On days when they are trying to create something that is paved or tension-set, they’re actually getting to physically see it. It helps them understand the techniques and engineering of the pieces,” she said. “Plus, well-known designer names, including Alan Revere, George Sawyer and Michael Bondanza, resonate with the students.”

Susan Helmich, member and former president of the AJDC, said the AJDC Collection at GIA was the ultimate opportunity to educate and inspire others about jewellery design as an art form. “It’s like a dream come true,” she said.

The collection, which will be on display at GIA in Carlsbad until June 2016, is also a treat for visitors.

“I think these jewellery pieces will stretch their understanding of what jewellery can be,” Santimer said. “It goes beyond what you would normally see in the local jewellery store. “They’re all designers who are trying to make it in the jewellery world, so we’re lucky to have them donated. It’s a special collection of a really important jewellery group in the United States.”

She said the eye-catching collection is sure to appeal to a variety of visitors.

“It is a nice selection of unusual metal techniques, advanced stone setting and an assortment of gemstones that will appeal to the gem geek and jewellery-loving public.”

Amanda J. Luke is a senior communications manager at GIA. She is the editor of the GIA Insider and Alum Connect and was the editor of The Loupe magazine.