Ametrine Quality Factors


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The best ametrines show distinct areas of orangey yellow and purple. These colours are featured in this graceful cut design. Photo by Lydia Dyer, © John Dyer & Co., gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.
When Bolivia’s ametrine mine reopened in the 1960s after being lost for centuries, the gem’s bicolour appearance became popular with dealers and gem designers. Its colours range from pale to intense amethyst and citrine shades.

The rough output from the Anahi mine produces amethyst, citrine and ametrine finished
gems in a range of tone and colour intensities. Photo © GIA and Tino Hammid.
Colour
Fine ametrine shows medium dark to moderately strong orange, and vivid to strong purple or violetish purple. Larger gems, usually those over five carats, tend to show the most intensely saturated hues. Dealers look for an attractive half-and-half distribution of each colour, with a sharp boundary between the two colours at the centre of the fashioned gemstone.

Rectangular cuts show off ametrine’s unique appearance. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Cynthia Renee Co.
Cut
Connoisseurs prize imaginative designer cuts that display ametrine’s two colours in artfully blended or contrasting combinations.

Dazzling Designer Cut
This 48.50 ct. ametrine, fashioned by gem designer Dalan Hargrave, dazzles the eye. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA.
Clarity
Much of the faceted ametrine in the market is eye-clean, meaning it lacks eye-visible inclusions.

Rectangular Step Cut
Like most faceted ametrine, this bicolour rectangular step cut has no eye-visible inclusions. Photo by Van Rossen, © ICA, courtesy Columbia Gem House.
Carat Weight
When it comes to highly prized ametrine, size matters. That’s because the best, most intense citrine and amethyst colours are found in larger sizes, usually over 5 carats.

This 87.66-ct. ametrine displays the rich purple of amethyst along with the contrasting orangey yellow of citrine. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA.