We all know the concept of "margin" when it comes to the jewelry business.

It's the difference between costs and revenues. And with the proliferation of consumer awareness and access to information and knowledge, thinner margins for most gem and jewelry products are a significant business concern. But, in this issue of the Insider, I want to address another kind of margin.

Have you ever wondered why - if we have so many laborsaving devices - computers, pagers, cell phones, e-mail, and the like - we feel so overloaded?

And is this feeling real, or simply imagined? Many of us feel rushed most of the time. We sleep much less than our forefathers and continually try to cram several lifetimes into one.

Years ago, futurists predicted we would be working far less than 40 hours per week. Truth is, most of us work far more than this, and certainly more than our parents before us. Yet work is only a portion of our overload problem.

In many areas, we exceed the limits of human capability. We have too many choices to ponder, too many decisions to make, too many events to attend and too much change to contend with. Our lives are full of activities and commitments that lead to undue stress and, unfortunately, too much strain on relationships. Life has gotten too complex and we have built too many expectations, for ourselves and for others.

We need to restore our margin in life. Margin, as described by Dr. Richard Swenson of the Future Health Study Center, is the difference between our load and our limits. It is our breathing room, our reserve. Margin is the opposite of overload. Without margin, we are constantly rushed, chronically exhausted and painfully self-protective. So what can we do to put margin back into our lives?

Here are some suggestions:

• Learn to say "no" - if only to preserve vitality for what really matters.
• Control technology, rather than letting it control you.
• Cultivate simplicity and learn to be content.
• Disconnect from the "rat race" and set boundaries to protect your space.
• Slow your pace of life and find genuine rest.

"That's easy to say," you may think, "but the reality of life is different."

Well, ponder this: while building margin in the jewelry business is critical to your success, isn't it equally as important to build margin in life?

Building margin in life can build business, too. It restores health, helps set direction and brings life into better balance. Building margin may not be the only thing you need to do this year, but I can't imagine a more important goal.

Researchers at the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory recently discovered a new laser drilling treatment that does not have the surface-reaching drill hole traditionally associated with laser drilling.

In traditional laser drilling, a hole drilled to a dark inclusion in the interior of the diamond serves as a channel for the strong acid used to remove or minimize the dark material. According to Thomas Moses, Vice President of Identification Services for the Laboratory, "The most likely candidates for this new procedure are diamonds that have shallow black or dark-appearing inclusions with some type of associated tension-fracture or cleavage."

Moses described the new process as understood by GIA researchers: "One or more pulsed lasers are focused on the near-surface inclusion to heat it so that it expands and creates sufficient stress to extend the cleavage to the surface." This, said Moses, "provides a conduit to the dark inclusion for a treatment that most likely involves boiling (often with pressure) in strong acids to reduce the visibility of the dark inclusion. The lasering leaves evidence of one or more internal channels within the cleavage or adjacent to the inclusion, but there is no surface-reaching drill hole."

Moses also noted a variation of the new lasering process, which involves, "cutting a channel into the diamond with what appear to be several drill holes placed alongside each other. At first glance, this could resemble natural etching. Acid bleaching is then introduced through these channels, which have been cut to reach internal feathers or crystals."

When a traditional laser drill hole is present, GIA policy is to note it as the first item in the Key to Symbols of GIA's Diamond Grading Report.

According to Moses, when features associated with these new lasering techniques are detected, GIA states in the "Comments" section of its Report:

"Internal laser drilling is not shown." On a Grading Report, this comment, which alerts the customer to the presence of laser drilling, is in place of a symbol on the plotting diagram.

Evidence of this new treatment has been found in only a small number of stones. Nevertheless, while research is ongoing, GIA wishes to educate members of the industry in how to detect the new laser drilling treatment and its variation. Photos of both the treatment and the variation are available in the Research section of GIA's Web site.

Ultraviolet Fluorescence:

The second step in separating natural from synthetic diamonds (after magnification) is the use of long- and short-wave ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Unlike the procedure in diamond grading, where the diamond is placed table down and viewed in partial darkness under long-wave UV light, identifying synthetic diamonds requires that the stone be viewed from all angles, in total darkness, under both wavelengths of UV.

Color and intensity of fluorescence, the most important aspects of the reaction in the diamond-grading process, may also help in the identification of synthetic diamonds. Natural diamonds commonly fluoresce blue to long-wave UV (LWUV) and a weaker yellow to short-wave UV (SWUV). In contrast, synthetic diamonds typically fluoresce yellow to yellowish green to both wavelengths of UV, often with a stronger reaction to SWUV than LWUV, or with a reaction that is equally intense to both.

In making this separation, the pattern or zoning of the fluorescence is often even more important than the color of the reaction itself. The internal growth sectors of a synthetic diamond generally produce geometric (octagonal, square, etc.) or cross-shaped patterns of fluorescence. This is in contrast to the evenly distributed fluorescence seen in natural diamonds.

Low magnification, such as the type found in an Optivisor, can be used to detect such patterns or zoning of fluorescence. Precautions must be taken to protect the eyes of the observer when short-wave UV (SWUV) is used, as it can cause irreparable damage.

A relatively quick and familiar test, ultraviolet fluorescence can be used by jewelers and gemologists alike to conclusively separate natural from synthetic diamonds. An added advantage is that this method can be used on entire parcels of diamonds, which saves both time and money.

Next issue: Part V: Spectroscopy

To find out more about GIA's Diamond courses and seminars, email admissions@gia.edu or call 800-421-7250 ext. 4001 or 760-603-4001.

On March 25, 250 people gathered at GIA GemFest Basel 2000 for "War Room," a no-holds-barred discussion entitled, "Has High Tech in the Industry Led to Low Trust Among Consumers and the Trade." A panel of six industry leaders participated in the dialogue, sponsored by Messe Basel.

Moderator Mark Cockle, editor-in-chief of CRU Publishing and Basel magazine, tapped into the important topic of treatments, disclosure and responsibility. Much of the debate centered on GE-POL diamonds.

Panelists included: Thomas Farber of Thomas Farber S.A., Esther Fortunoff of Fortunoff, Dilip Mehta of Rosy Blue Inc., Harry Levy of Levy Gems Co., Stefan Mayer of Ringexperte Heinz Mayer, and Dr. James Shigley GIA's Director of Research.

Esther Fortunoff, executive vice president of Fortunoff, speculated that television exposés on the GE-Process could be damaging to consumer confidence.

"I think there's a lot more to come," said Fortunoff. "So far, there's really been barely a ripple of this in the United States."

Dr. Shigley summarized the Institute's diamond treatment research and provided timely information on data collected through the study of 1,250 GE-processed diamonds examined at GIA's world headquarters in Carlsbad, California.

During the "War Room" proceedings, some panelists and audience members questioned whether more companies might be exploring "high-tech" undetectable treatments.

Shigley replied, "I would say, in general, we see an increasing sophistication of synthesis and treatment methods for diamonds, colored stones and pearls."

The "War Room" panel also discussed methods the industry could use to check the validity of jewelry information on the Internet. Panelists rounded out their discussion with comments on determining country of origin for diamonds.

For more in-depth coverage of the Basel "War Room," please visit the Alumni & Associates page at www.gia.edu/

Career Fair 2000

Now in its 10th year, GIA's Career Fair promises to be an even bigger and more exciting recruiting event than ever before. Job seekers will flock to GIA's World Headquarters and Robert Mouawad Campus in Carlsbad, CA, on Friday, June 9, and to the Jacob Javits Center in New York on Friday, July 28, to meet with retailers, manufacturers, designers, wholesalers and e-commerce companies.

More than a job fair, Career Fair is a career enhancement day designed to showcase all the jewelry industry has to offer. Between interviews, job seekers can attend special panel sessions devoted to key segments of the industry and learn the latest hiring and market trends. Or, they can benefit from personalized career counseling by top industry executives. They can also have their resumes reviewed, pick up some interviewing tips, and have the opportunity to meet and mingle with the industry's top personalities. Career Fair is FREE to all job seekers.

For further information, or to register:

Job seekers should call 800-421-7250 ext. 4100 or 760-603-4100 or careerfair@gia.edu

Recruiters should contact GIA's Career Services Manager, Anna Lisa Johnston at 800-421-7250 ext.4255 or 760-603-4255 or ajohnston@gia.edu

Commencement 2000

All GIA Gemologists, Graduate Gemologists, Graduate Jewelers, and Graduate Jeweler Gemologists, are invited to attend the formal graduation to be held in their honor Saturday, June 10, 2000, 3:00 p.m. at GIA's World Headquarters and Robert Mouawad Campus. Graduates will be able to celebrate with a gala reception, dinner dance, class reunions, and a variety other activities.

To receive a formal invitation to the event, please email grad2000@gia.edu