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Friday, June 16, 2000
Volume 2, Issue 12
A bi-weekly electronic bulletin from the Gemological Institute of America – the world's foremost authority in gemology.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
In this issue:
June 16, 2000
Thoughts From the President: The Educated Consumer
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I read a sentence recently - in a leading jewelry industry magazine - that stopped me dead in my tracks. “Like it or not,” it began, “the trade is becoming increasingly dependent on the educated consumer.”
I was immediately struck by the irony of the phrase “Like it or not….”
The sentence is found in a 7-page analysis on the state of the gem and jewelry industry. In this particular case, a survey was conducted by questioning nearly 400 people in our profession. And one result in the survey showed that 76% of the respondents believe consumers are more knowledgeable than five years ago. The magazine correctly characterizes its analysis as “an interesting glimpse into the mindset of our trade.”
And perhaps that’s what bothered me most. The sentence that began with the words “Like it or not” suggests there is a portion of our industry that – for some reason – resents or fears the public dissemination of product knowledge. It’s as if there are still those among us who fear the specter of full disclosure or the concept of “honest merchandising.” I ask myself if these are the same people who fail to see the relationship between increasingly educated consumers and the strongest holiday sales season on record.
Sharing reliable product knowledge with the public at every possible opportunity strengthens consumer confidence. And, as this year is again proving, it could be the single most successful business strategy our industry has ever seen.
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June 16, 2000
The Chameleon Diamond Effect: A Better Understanding
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By: GIA Gem Trade Laboratory staff members Dr. Ilene Reinitz, Manager of East Coast Research and Development; Shane McClure, Director of West Coast Identification Services, and Mary Johnson, Manager of West Coast Research and Development
Two recent announcements from First Diamond Group, an Israeli firm that provides diamond color treatment, use the phrase “chameleon diamond effect” to describe treated-color diamonds that vary from green to yellow under different lighting conditions (S. Gatter, “First Diamond Announces…,” diamonds.net, May 17, 2000). Although we have not seen these particular treated diamonds yet, we want to make clear the distinction between two different phenomena: (1) diamonds - natural or treated color - that show a change in color appearance under different illuminations, and (2) natural-color diamonds that show a color change related to their exposure to heat or extended time in darkness.
Some rare, natural-color grayish greenish yellow to yellowish grayish green diamonds, known as “chameleons” in the colored diamond trade (S. Hofer, “Collecting and classifying coloured diamonds,” Ashland Press,1998), exhibit a thermochromic (and photochromic) change of color to yellow or orangy yellow. That is, if one heats a chameleon diamond to approximately 200°C (or keeps it in a dark environment for at least 24 hours), one will observe a change from a greenish to a yellowish color, which will revert to the original hue as the diamond cools to room temperature (or is exposed to light). This color change can be measured by visible absorption spectroscopy at room and higher temperatures; it results from a physical effect within the diamond that is not well understood at present. However, this chameleon effect has not yet been observed in a treated-color diamond.
In contrast, rare natural-color diamonds (T. Moses, “Gem Trade Lab Notes: Two Noteworthy Diamonds…,” Gems & Gemology, Spring 1997) as well as highly saturated green-to-yellow treated-color diamonds such as those that have been HPHT treated (R. Bates and G. Roskin, “New Process Turns…,” JCK, February, 2000), show a distinctly different phenomenon, a change in hue produced by the excitement of green luminescence by some light sources, such as direct sunlight. (The historic Tavernier (pear) diamond shows a similar luminescence-based color change from orange to purple [Y. Liu et al., “The Alexandrite Effect of…,” Color Research and Application, Vol. 23, No. 5, 1998].) The underlying cause of this form of color change is well understood, and is totally unrelated to changes in temperature or the absence of light. Such lack of color constancy is observed in both natural- and treated-color diamonds.
For research references, visit www.gia.edu, and click on the “GIA Research” section.
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June 16, 2000
Gems & Gemology: Bi-Colored Cat¿s-Eye Beryl From Pakistan
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Dudley Blauwet of Dudley Blauwet Gems, Louisville, Colorado, showed senior editor Brendan Laurs a cabochon of bi-colored beryl that displayed an interesting chatoyant band along the color boundary. About one dozen such cabochons were reportedly cut from rough that was mined in 1997-1998 at a pegmatite near Haiderabad in northern Pakistan.
One half of the stone was greenish blue, and the other was very pale pink. The color boundary, which was sharp and evenly centered, was oriented perpendicular to the c-axis. Spot R.I. readings of 1.56 were recorded on both halves. The pink portion was transparent to translucent due to abundant “fingerprints” composed of wavy planes of two-phase (liquid-gas) inclusions. The greenish blue half was transparent but contained numerous growth tubes oriented parallel to the c-axis, which caused subtle chatoyancy. Scattered dark gray-green prisms (which appear to be tourmaline) also were seen in the greenish blue portion, particularly along the contact with the pink half. The 2.5-mm-wide chatoyant band lay within the greenish blue portion, very near the color boundary. The band appeared colorless due to the scattering of light associated with the chatoyancy; it contained abundant fine structures oriented parallel to the c-axis, as well as the growth tubes described above.
More information and an illustration of this cat’s-eye beryl will appear in the Gem News section of the upcoming Summer 2000 issue of Gems & Gemology. To reserve your copy, or to subscribe, contact the Subscriptions Manager, Debbie Ortiz, mailto:dortiz@gia.edu or call toll-free 800-421-7250 ext. 7142. Outside the US and Canada, call 760-603-4000 ext. 7142. Or visit www.gia.edu, and click on the “Gems & Gemology” section.
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June 16, 2000
Free Sample Lesson Offered to Promote A.J.P. Diploma Program
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For a limited time, GIA is offering the first lesson of its recently launched Jewelry Essentials course for free. Jewelry Essentials is one of three courses needed to complete the Institute’s latest diploma program, the Accredited Jewelry Professional (A.J.P.). In addition, recipients of Lesson 1 are offered a savings of up to $129 on prepaid enrollment for the entire A.J.P. program. The special price expires August 31, 2000.
Commenting on the offer, Brook Ellis, Vice President of Education, said, “Sharing Lesson 1 of a brand-new diploma program with members of the trade – the A.J.P. program’s primary market – is a natural and logical decision.”
The free sample lesson is intended to familiarize members of the trade with the voice and content of GIA’s Accredited Jewelry Professional program, which is substantially different from the G.G. curriculum. The A.J.P. courses are specially designed to help sales associates achieve credibility and increase sales quickly.
Lesson 1, “The Nature of Precious Metals,” provides key product knowledge for gold, platinum, and silver. Features such as allure, workability, and durability are explained in terms that can easily be translated into benefits for customers.
To request your copy of the free sample lesson, call 800-421-7250 ext. 4001. Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 760-603-4001. You may also request your free sample by visiting the Education section of www.gia.edu, and clicking on the red “Jewelry Essentials” button. Offer good while supplies last.
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June 16, 2000
Insider Gemologist: Detecting Synthetic Diamond, PART VII: Strain
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"Strain," otherwise known as anomalous double reaction (ADR), can be useful in separating natural from synthetic diamonds. Although strain alone does not prove natural or synthetic origin, it is a useful indication when a diamond is free of inclusions, is of high color, or shows no "Cape" lines in the spectroscope. Strain is well known to diamond manufacturers, for whom it is an important factor when deciding how to cut a diamond from the rough. In a natural diamond, strain is visible as bright interference colors that generally occur in banded, cross-hatched, or mottled patterns. In contrast, the strain in a synthetic diamond mainly appears black and gray and shows a cross-like pattern.
Detecting strain is fairly easy: Simply hold the diamond table to culet and view it between crossed polarizing filters attached to a gemological microscope or with a polariscope.
In conclusion, the recent series of articles on detecting synthetic diamonds has shown how it is possible to definitively separate gem-quality yellow, blue, near-colorless, and colorless natural diamonds from their synthetic counterparts using a combination of the following standard gem-testing methods: magnification, ultraviolet fluorescence, spectroscopy, magnetism, and strain. To help jewelers and gemologists in this endeavor, GIA has published "A Chart for the Separation of Natural and Synthetic Diamonds," which is currently available at www.gia.edu by clicking on the “GEM Instruments and Books” section. (Source: Gems & Gemology, Winter 1995)
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June 16, 2000
New CAD/CAM Classes Offered at GIA
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Education officials of GIA say they are excited about a new Jewelry Manufacturing Arts (JMA) extension class in computer-aided design/computer-aided manufacturing (CAD/CAM). According to Mick McBride, GIA’s Director of Education, the reason for this excitement is that the new two-week class is “the pinnacle in high-tech education for jewelry manufacturing.”
Students will start the first CAD/CAM extension class at GIA’s Carlsbad campus on July 17.
Sherrie Kysilka, GIA Jewelry Manufacturing Product Manager, said this 3-D technology, “depicts designs as solid forms, and the design can be adjusted repeatedly, without having to begin a new model every time.” She noted the software lends itself well to either complex or simple designs, enabling designers to spot errors, make modifications, and produce a prototype, all in about half the time needed with traditional techniques.
The class is intended for those who know basic jewelry design principles and have hands-on working knowledge of Microsoft (registered trademark) Windows-based software. It can benefit not only jewelry designers, but also wax carvers, model makers, and anyone else seeking to reduce production costs or substantially reduce the time required to take new products from design to market.
Class space is limited. For enrollment information on this class contact GIA Admissions at 800-421-7250, ext. 4001 or 760-603-4001.
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June 16, 2000
Career Fair a Hit with Industry Recruiters, GIA Students
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GIA’s world headquarters bustled with an estimated 650 participants June 9 during the Institute’s tenth annual Career Fair.
The event offered hundreds of jobs spanning the entire nation.
GIA Career Services Manager Anna Lisa Johnston said, “In the tightest U.S. job market in 30 years, Career Fair is one of the most important services GIA can provide for the jewelry industry.” She pointed out, “The 30 recruiters said they were extremely satisfied with the caliber of job seekers in attendance. Applicants were enthusiastic and highly qualified for the positions being offered.”
One of the most high-impact guest speakers was Holly K. Croft, G.G., who earned her diploma from GIA exactly one year ago. Now president of Holly K. Croft Designs, Croft told prospective employees to focus on their career goals. “Have a vision, believe in yourself, have confidence, and promote yourself,” she advised. She also implored, “Don’t ever give up.”
Croft, whose GIA education helped her enter the jewelry industry as a second career, urged students and others looking for employment to “take full advantage of the one-on-one counseling, and talk to all the counselors.” Croft also thanked GIA for “their commitment to this job placement program. GIA changed my life. For the first time, I really love what I do.”
A similar Career Fair will be held in New York July 28 at the Jacob Javits Center. Admission is free. For more information, call GIA at 800-421-7250, ext. 4100, or 760-603-4014, or visit www.gia.edu, and click on the “News and Events” section.
For further information, or to register:
Job seekers contact 800-421-7250 ext. 4100 or 760-603-4100 or careerfair@gia.edu
Recruiters contact GIA's Career Services Manager, Anna Lisa Johnston at 800-421-7250 ext.4255 or 760-603-4255 or ajohnston@gia.edu
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June 16, 2000
First-ever Formal Graduation Honors GIA Graduates Worldwide
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Nearly 300 graduates of GIA crossed the stage against the backdrop of a perfect summer afternoon of clear blue skies and sunshine during GIA’s first-ever formal worldwide graduation ceremony. Approximately 500 people attended the June 10 event, and all graduates who participated received a commemorative document acknowledging their participation, and a medallion bearing the image of GIA Founder Robert M. Shipley.
Also receiving the commemorative document and medallion was keynote speaker Dr. Chistopher Bramlett, G.G., a well-known educator and a distinguished member of the jewelry industry.
President Bill Boyajian introduced GIA’s Chairman, Richard T. Liddicoat, referring to him as “a man who has given more to the Institute and the industry than perhaps any other.” Mr. Liddicoat congratulated all GIA graduates, noting that earning “the Graduate Gemologist diploma is a really difficult task, and a worthy one.” He said, “I don’t know of any other exam that requires a 100 percent passing grade.”
For the complete report on this event, visit www.gia.edu, and click on the “News and Events” section.
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June 16, 2000
Statue Dedicated to Father of Modern Gemology - Richard T. Liddicoat
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Telling an audience of hundreds, “Today we are witnessing a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity” to honor the man who “is the personification of GIA, who is GIA,” President Bill Boyajian began the ceremony dedicating a life-sized statue of GIA Chairman Mr. Richard T. Liddicoat at the front entrance of GIA’s world headquarters.
The 400-pound bronze sculpture of GIA’s chairman, widely known as “the father of modern gemology,” was unveiled by Boyajian and sculptor Michael Clary, Supervisor of Gemological Services at GIA’s Gem Trade Laboratory in Carlsbad, shortly after GIA’s first-ever formal worldwide graduation ceremony.
Clary pointed out that he designed the statue to show Mr. Liddicoat holding the “Handbook of Gem Identification” – the first gemological book he authored. He turned to Mr. Liddicoat and said, “It’s a pleasure to honor you with this sculpture.”
For the complete report on this event, visit www.gia.edu, and click on the “News and Events” section.
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June 16, 2000
GIA GEM Instruments at I.J.O. Boca Raton
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At the Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO) Show in Boca Raton, FL July 22 - 26, GEM Instrument’s Timothy Nakasawa will display the Institute’s entire line of microscopes and accessories, the Brilliant Eye by Sarin Technologies, the InfoView Digital Camera System by Intelligent Motion Controls, and a variety of gem identification and diamond grading tools.
Show Specials:
GEM Instruments will provide Sarin Technologie’s Label Printing Software, a $200 value, with any Brilliant Eye purchase.
Every order over $1000 comes with a free diamond tester, a $149 value
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