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Friday, July 14, 2000
Volume 2, Issue 14
A bi-weekly electronic bulletin from the Gemological Institute of America – the world's foremost authority in gemology.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
In this issue:
July 14, 2000
Thoughts From The President: En Route to the 29th World Diamond Congress
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[Written in Mr. Boyajian’s absence by the editors of GIA Insider]
As this reaches you, GIA's president, William E. Boyajian, is leading a team of the Institute's executives and researchers at the 29th World Diamond Congress in Antwerp. What has become known as the "conflict diamonds" issue promises to figure prominently in discussions throughout the Congress. (The term "conflict diamonds" has recently been used to characterize diamonds that are being sold by rebel forces to fund civil wars in certain regions of Africa. Elected officials and numerous organizations have expressed a keen interest in being able to positively identify diamonds that come from these regions).
GIA’s Director of Research, Dr. James Shigley, is scheduled to make a presentation at the Congress on the limitations and possibilities of determining the "country of origin" of gem diamonds. He will reiterate the Institute’s long-held position that no practical means exist today for determining the country of origin of polished diamonds.
In a recent interview with Lawrence Freund, a Voice of America broadcast journalist, GIA’s president said that he was impressed with the UN Security Council's resolution to control the flow of diamonds through government channels, such as customs. Expressing doubt as to the practicality of accurately identifying a single rough diamond, Boyajian conceded in the interview that identifying parcels of rough might be easier. "There are characteristics that you would notice that might be indicative of a particular locality or mine. But, taken individually, it would be extraordinarily difficult. And scientifically, there is just no way to prove it today."
[More on "conflict diamonds" from GIA’s president following the World Diamond Congress.]
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July 14, 2000
Naftule and Mehta Appointed to GIA’s Board of Governors
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GIA President William E. Boyajian has announced that two new members have been appointed to the Institute’s Board of Governors. They are Roland Naftule, widely regarded as one of the world’s leading colored stone dealers, and Dilip Mehta, founder and president of Rosy Blue, one of the world’s largest privately owned diamond groups, and a CSO sightholder.
Boyajian said, "I have known Roland Naftule for some twenty years, and I am certain he will make a great contribution to our Board of Governors. He added, "I believe that his knowledge and experience, especially in the colored stone industry, will be invaluable to the Institute as we move forward in dynamic new ways in the future."
"Dilip Mehta," said Boyajian, " has been a great friend and strong supporter of GIA's mission for many years." Boyajian also praised Mehta’s leadership in the diamond industry, remarking, "Without question, his global perspective and his expertise in this field will help propel our education and service to the trade and the public."
More information about these two new members of GIA's Board of Governors will be published soon.
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July 14, 2000
The Insider Gemologist: Identifying Diffusion-Treated Red Corundum
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Q: How do I identify diffusion-treated red corundum?
A: Diffusion-treated red corundum initially caused great concern in the trade, as most new treatments do, but has proved to be relatively easy to identify. We have recently seen diffusion-treated red corundum mixed in calibrated ruby parcels. Dark tones, a strange, watery look face-up, and poor polish, are key indications. The spectroscope may reveal only a single strong absorption line in the red rather than a typical ruby spectrum. Obtaining refractometer readings can be difficult, and RIs from different facets vary widely. You‘ll get vague readings anywhere between 1.76 and OTL. The polariscope shows the stone is DR, and you may see a uniaxial interference figure. Treatment involves embedding stones in aluminum-oxide powder containing coloring ingredients.
Prolonged heating at 1600-1850 degrees centigrade diffuses chromium into a shallow surface layer. Re-polishing creates a characteristic patchy surface coloration with concentrations at facet junctions, and some facets are completely devoid of color where the polishing process has removed it. This is best seen when the stone is immersed in methylene iodide, or viewed face down over a diffused white light source. In immersion the treated stones will be very high relief when compared to an untreated corundum. These stones also may show a patchy bluish white to yellowish white surface luminescence in short wave ultraviolet light. (Spring 1993 Gems & Gemology, "Update on Diffusion-Treated Corundum: Red and Other Colors," by McClure et al., pp.16-28.)
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July 14, 2000
Gems & Gemology: Exploring Pearl Nuclei, Jegdalek Deposit, and Diamond Treatments
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The Summer 2000 issue of Gems & Gemology will be packed with informative articles on several critical issues. In "Characteristics of Nuclei in Chinese Freshwater Cultured Pearls" (FWCPs), approximately 41,000 samples were studied by X-radiography - and 10 samples were sectioned - to address published claims that most large round Chinese FWCPs are nucleated by reject tissue-nucleated FWCPs. All of the samples showed evidence of tissue nucleation only. The article "Ruby and Sapphire from Jegdalek, Afghanistan" provides a detailed investigation of this historic deposit and the gem corundum it produces. Although most of the material consists of cabochon-quality pink sapphires, some fine facet-grade rubies have been mined.
The issue will also feature three articles on important new diamond treatments. "Identification of HPHT-Treated Yellow to Green Diamonds" describes the highly saturated body color, well-defined brown to yellow octahedral graining, and green "transmission" luminescence shown by these diamonds, as well as their distinctive spectral features. The other diamond treatment articles focus on identifying a new lasering technique that typically does not have the traditional surface-reaching drill hole, and on characterizing diamonds treated with a new glass-filling.
The issue is scheduled to mail on Friday, August 11. To reserve your copy, or to subscribe, visit http://www.gia.edu or contact the Subscriptions Manager, Debbie Ortiz, or call toll-free 800-421-7250 ext. 7142. Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 760-603-4000 ext. 7142.
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July 14, 2000
More than 40 Industry Recruiters Scheduled for Career Fair New York
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GIA’s New York Career Fair, to be held July 28 at the Jacob Javits Center, will include more than 40 industry recruiters seeking candidates for a variety of positions. The Career Fair, which is free and open to all job-seekers and those interested in a career in the jewelry industry, will be held from 9:00 a.m. to 3:15 p.m.
Job seekers can interview with some of the top employers in the industry, including Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Tiffany & Co., Fred Leighton, Ltd., Christian Bernard, Fortunoff, Zale Corp., Abe Mor Diamond Cutters & Co., The Colibri Group, ColorMasters Gem Corp., Henry Dunay Designs, Inc., Eugene Biro Corp., and M. Fabrikant & Sons. Representing almost every sector of the jewelry industry, these companies will offer hundreds of positions in retail, design, appraising, manufacturing, and more. Positions range from entry-level to management, from part-time to full time. Free seminars and panel sessions will offer job seekers valuable information on market trends, career opportunities and hiring strategies in various areas of the industry.
GIA’s Career Fair is made possible by the sponsorship and support of leading industry organizations, such as National Jeweler magazine, Jewelers of America, the JCK International Publishing Group, and Professional Jeweler magazine. For further information, or to register: Job seekers contact 800-421-7250 ext. 4100 or 760-603-4100. Recruiters contact GIA's Career Services Manager, Anna Lisa Johnston at 800-421-7250 ext. 4255 or 760-603-4255
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July 14, 2000
GIA Features New Booth, Special Offers at JA New York Summer Show
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Visitors at the Jewelers of America (JA) New York Summer Show July 30 to August 2 will find GIA's booth in a new location this year. The new booth, number 1662, will feature a large display of GIA GEM Instruments products, along with Education offerings. Information about GIA Gem Trade Laboratory Reports and Services, including the GIA Diamond Dossier and the recently introduced GIA Emerald Report, will be available, and experts from GIA GEM Instruments and GIA Education also will be on hand throughout the show to provide information and assistance.
Special Offers at the JA Show
GIA GEM Instruments and Books:
1. For GEM Instruments and Books purchases of $250 or more, GIA will offer a FREE 10x mini darkfield loupe valued at $59.
2. As a show special, most Rubin & Sons North America products will be available at a 15 % reduction.
GIA GEM Instruments and Books customers please note: Those who did not receive their $250 coupon in the recent catalog mailing, be sure to stop by the GIA booth and ask for details.
GIA Education:
1. Enroll in Distance Education courses, and receive free audio tapes for selected courses.
2. FREE! Sample GIA's new Accredited Jewelry Professional (A.J.P.) Program by picking up your copy of Jewelry Essentials Lesson #1 "The Nature of Precious Metals."
3. Bonus! Save $345 on the new Accredited Jewelry Professional (A.J.P.) Diploma Program. Show attendees who enroll at the show and pre-pay tuition will get the audio tapes FREE - a $240 value, plus GIA will take 10 percent - $105 - off the regular tuition price.
4. Those who sign up for GIA’s Distance Education Pearls Course will receive a free copy of the book, "Pearl and the Dragon."
For more information on GIA courses and classes, visit GIA Education at http://www.gia.edu or call 800 421 7250, ext. 4001.
Alumni and Associates:
New and renewing Alumni and Associates members who sign up at the JA New York show will be entered in a drawing for a free Jewelry Essentials course, a value of $349. And don’t forget: Bring in three new members and receive one year of Alumni and Associates membership free. Also, the new summer 2000 issue of The Loupe: GIA World News*, available at the GIA booth, features the Carat Point Article: "A Guide for the Separation of ‘Colorless’ Diamond, Cubic Zirconia and Synthetic Moissanite," and free accompanying wall chart to display in your place of business. (*While supplies last).
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July 14, 2000
Kwiat Named 2000 Founders Dinner Chair
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Sheldon Kwiat, co-president of Kwiat Inc., a diamond importer and manufacturer of fine diamond jewelry, has been named a 2000 League of Honor Founders Dinner chair. Kwiat will host a Founders Dinner cocktail reception and presentation of the Eunice Miles Scholarship by the GIA Alumni Manhattan Chapter, 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Thursday, July 27, at the Harvard Club of New York City. Industry members who would like to attend must RSVP to GIA at 760-603-4258.
The annual Founders Dinner recognizes donors who contribute $100,000 or more to the Institute. The 2000 dinner, scheduled for Oct. 23 at the Plaza Hotel in New York, will honor contributors to the Institute’s New World Headquarters Campaign, Vision 2000 campaign, and the 1999 Third International Gemological Symposium. Kwiat, a 1998 GIA League of Honor Sovereign, graduated from the Wharton School of Finance at the University of Pennsylvania in 1968, and has been actively engaged in the diamond industry since 1969. He has served on the Gemological Committee of the Diamond Dealers Club (DDC) for more than 17 years and served as chairman of that committee from 1996 until his election to the GIA Board of Governors in 1996. Sheldon also serves on the board of directors of the DDC and the Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association.
Read the full story on the Founders Dinner event in the Summer 2000 issue of The Loupe: GIA World News, available at the GIA booth (#1662) during the JA New York Show.
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July 14, 2000
GIA Genesis to Host Industry Reception July 31
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Members of the GIA Genesis Executive Board invite all young professionals in the gem and jewelry industry to join them for Chez Genesis, a Genesis reception and hosted bar (beer and wine). The event will be on Monday, July 31, 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., following the JA New York show, at Rue 57, 60 West 57 th St at 6th Ave., New York City. For more information or to RSVP, contact Heather Childers, GIA associate campaign director, at 800-421-7250 ext. 4139
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July 14, 2000
GIA Extension Classes Come to Chicago - July 17th thru August 4th
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Take advantage of the Institute's convenient traveling classrooms! In as little as 2 hours - and in no more than 5 days - you develop the practical hands-on skills of a true gem and jewelry professional. Benefit from individualized attention by having a fully qualified GIA Instructor on-site.
Extension Classes in Chicago
Diamond Grading July 17 - 21
Gem Identification July 24 - 28
Colored Stone Grading July 31 - Aug 2
Detecting Synth Diamonds July 22
Advanced Diamond Grading July 22
Pearl Grading Aug 3 - 4
Student Lab July 26 - 30
For more information about Extension Class location, class schedule, and tuition fees, please call: 1 800 421 7250 ext. 4001 or visit us at www.gia.edu and click on GIA Education.
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July 14, 2000
Correction
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The previous issue of the Insider (June 30) contained an article about a new book by John Koivula. The article also contained the statement, "Koivula’s last book, ‘The Photo Atlas of Inclusions,’ published in 1986, is a detailed portrayal of colored stone inclusions." That was an erroneous identification. The book’s full title is "The Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones," and it was co-authored with Dr. Edward J. Gubelin.
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