When I learned of Robin Walker’s impending retirement from De Beers last year, I began to think of how we could share his unique knowledge and speaking talents with our students and alumni. After many discussions with Robin and Alumni Association Director Patrick Ball, we organized a GIA-sponsored nationwide tour of seven cities: Carlsbad, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Dallas, Chicago, Washington DC and New York. For the past two weeks, Robin has been mesmerizing audiences across the country with his magical stories about diamonds and diamond history.

During his 41 years of service with the Central Selling Organisation, Walker traveled the world, starting in West Africa and completing his tenure with De Beers at 17 Charterhouse Street in London. In his GIA presentations, he shared insights that could only be learned from such a vast experience with diamonds, which included regular trips to India, Belgium and Israel. From mining to trends in global marketing to the future of the industry itself, Walker displayed an encyclopedic knowledge of diamonds and the diamond industry.

I first met Robin Walker on a GIA tour of Europe in 1980. The highlight of my trip was the visit to De Beers and the inside look at the most influential organization in the industry that Robin Walker gave us. He became the face of De Beers for this young instructor.  Robin’s lectures these past two weeks have been as inspiring as the one I listened to 21 years ago.

My congratulations to Robin Walker for his outstanding presentations, and for his wonderful example of love and passion for the industry, its beautiful products and its people. I hope that each of us in our own way can have a career as exciting, and make contributions as profound, as Robin’s.

GIA’s study of diamond cut proportions has a long history – longer, in some ways, than the history of GIA itself, since one could say that poor cutting proportions helped motivate Robert M. Shipley to found GIA.  In the mid-1920s Shipley, a successful jeweler, met with one of his wealthy clients who had just returned from the diamond cutting centers of Europe.  This client informed him that his knowledge of diamonds was incomplete.  Although Shipley knew as much about diamonds as most American jewelers at the time, he felt embarrassed to discover that he had sold many diamonds with apparently “poor makes” – that is, diamonds that were cut badly.  Eventually, this embarrassment, along with his desire to fully educate himself on all aspects of diamonds and other gemstones, led him to enroll in the gemology courses offered by the National Association of Goldsmiths (London).

To view this article in its entirety, click here.

Question: What are some considerations for taking a good refractometer reading?

Answer: The refractometer is one of the instruments most relied upon in gem identification. Although used alone it can rarely determine the identity of an unknown gem, it can be counted on to limit the number of possibilities to no more than a few.

To get a good reading from your refractometer, it is important to focus on how precisely the facet of the stone contacts the hemicylinder surface. This contact between the stone and the hemicylinder changes the critical angle of the hemicylinder, which is translated by the refractometer into a refractive index (RI) reading. The critical angle is determined by the relative RI values of the two materials in contact. For example, consider how a diamond looks when its surface is greasy. Because grease has a higher refractive index value (RI about 1.47) than air (RI=1.00), the critical angle inside the diamond is wider, allowing more light to exit the stone in directions away from the point of observation. This makes the diamond appear less brilliant or even dull.

The contact liquid is the “optical bridge” between the gem and the hemicylinder.  To ensure the gem’s best possible contact to the hemicylinder, it is key that you use the least possible amount of contact liquid for the size and condition of the facet. RI liquid is toxic and some people develop allergies to it, so always use the least possible amount, keep the bottle closed between uses, and dispose of your trash in a covered container.

Although most stones with well-polished flat surfaces provide unambiguous readings, some situations can cause problems.

Parallax (optical distortion) occurs when the facet being tested is not perfectly flat, or when too much contact liquid is used. This appears as a reading that wavers between scale divisions and may be misinterpreted as double refraction. In this situation, you should first wipe off most of the contact liquid, and try again. If the second reading is similar to the first, the next step is to confirm true birefringence by holding your head steady while rotating a Polaroid filter over the refractometer eyepiece. If there is a parallax effect, the reading should remain constant as the filter is rotated. In contrast, true birefringence would show first one reading, then the other, as the Polaroid filter is rotated. To determine whether a facet is flat, reflect light off the facet and observe how the reflection flashes back to your eye. If you see one bright, mirror-like facet, then it is flat; however, if the reflected light appears to roll across the surface of the facet, it is not perfectly flat. In that case, try to find a better facet for your RI reading.

Yet another anomalous refractometer reading is seen on some mounted stones. A prong that extends slightly above the table of the gem can cause the stone to be tilted off the hemicylinder’s surface, producing a distinct, but inaccurate, reading. This also can happen if a sulfur particle (from the contact liquid) is trapped between the facet and the hemicylinder.

Reduced sharpness of your RI reading can be due to a tarnished hemicylinder. A tarnished hemicylinder looks gray or iridescent in reflected light. To remove tarnish, mix cerium oxide powder (a polishing compound) with water to make a paste, and then simply rub the paste lengthwise on the hemicylinder surface with your finger for about a minute. Remove any remaining compound with a soft cloth.

For more tips on getting great RI readings from your refractometer, refer to GIA’s Colored Stones Program or take GIA’s one-week Gem Identification class.

Insider Gemologist Contributing Editors: The following members of GIA are Contributing Editors to the Insider Gemologist: Philip G. York, G. G., Wendi M. Mayerson, G.G., John I

GIA has announced the successful completion of preliminary testing of a new online accelerated program that allows people to earn one of the Institute’s world-renowned diplomas in as few as 23 days.

The pilot program is a version of GIA’s Accredited Jewelry Professional (A.J.P.) diploma program, currently offered as part of the Institute’s Distance Education curriculum. But increased demand from retailers for a faster completion prompted GIA, the world’s foremost authority in gemology, to create an accelerated program that can be successfully completed in about three weeks.

The first to sample the program was an East Coast retailer of fine jewelry, Lux Bond & Green. The company was looking for an educational program that would offer jewelry product knowledge and sales techniques helpful in the retail jewelry industry. Lux Bond & Green wanted something reliable, informative, and immediate so they turned to GIA, which was looking for a company to test the accelerated A.J.P. program.

The A.J.P. program consists of three courses – Jewelry Essentials, Colored Stone Essentials and Diamond Essentials. Jewelry Essentials was launched online last April, making it GIA’s first fully Web-based course. The remaining courses – Colored Stone Essentials and Diamond Essentials – will be made available online later this year, according to GIA Education officials. But, through the pilot program, students were able to complete questionnaires using GIA’s Virtual Campus and receive immediate feedback. An instructor from GIA works with students over the phone and via email in the A.J.P. Learning Community program.

For Lux Bond & Green, which operates five stores in Connecticut and one in Boston, the accelerated A.J.P. program proved to be a resounding success, said John Green, chief executive officer of the fine jewelry chain. “Everyone who participated thought this was an excellent educational experience,” said Green, noting that the employees ranged from sales associates, to managers, to a Graduate Gemologist (G.G.). Green (pictured above with a Lux Bond & Green employee who recently earned her A.J.P. diploma) added: “For some, it was a review. For others, who knew nothing about gemology, it was an introduction. But for all of them, it was helpful and will benefit their careers at Lux Bond & Green or elsewhere in the jewelry industry.”

While the standard A.J.P. program can be done at the students’ own pace, the accelerated version requires about one hour of work daily, two hours each weekend day. Those hours can be changed to accommodate work schedules of retail associates, said Tom Lahman, GIA’s manager of Distance Education. “This is the right tool for retail sales associates looking for immediate success,” he said. “So far, the feedback we have received about this program is that it is meeting people’s needs, as we hoped it would. This is an opportunity for those in retail jewelry to get a top-notch education in a limited time.” Lahman, a lead developer of the course, continued: “Every day sales associates learn valuable product information that they can turn around and offer to their customers the very next day. Accelerated A.J.P. is as comprehensive and invaluable as its predecessor, it’s just completed in a shorter span of time.”

Testing on the accelerated A.J.P. program is expected to be completed later this year, at which time the program will be made available. For more information on GIA’s accelerated Accredited Jewelry Professional diploma program, call 800-421-7250, ext. 4001, or email ajpfast@gia.edu.

Is your company looking for highly-trained, qualified professionals to work in retail, design, manufacturing, gem wholesaling, marketing, laboratory services or other facets of the jewelry industry? If so, sign up to be a part of GIA’s annual Career Fair to be held Friday, July 27 at the Jacob Javits Center in New York and again on Friday, October 12 at GIA’s Robert Mouawad Campus in Carlsbad, California. At GIA’s Career Fair, the single-most important recruitment day in the gem and jewelry industry, you’ll have a chance to meet hundreds of trained professionals looking to get into, or move up in, the jewelry industry.
More than 1,700 job seekers turned out at last year’s events and even more are expected this year. In one day, you can meet an array of talented, motivated, and qualified job seekers. So, if your firm is looking to fill positions, this is the place for you.

The cost to participate in the New York event is $400; $300 in Carlsbad; and $500 to participate in both events. In exchange, firms can display advertising in the event program; post a listing on GIA’s Career Fair Web site; be included in GIA’s The Loupe, which has a circulation of 70,000; and benefit from a broad publicity effort designed to attract job seekers to the event.

Free to the public, the day-long Career Fair is well-known in the jewelry industry as a career enhancement day, offering newcomers and established industry professionals the tools they need to maximize the job search. Seminars provide key information on market trends, career opportunities, and hiring strategies in various industry sectors. Workshops provide the “how-tos,” from crafting a winning resume, to conducting yourself at an interview. There’s even a workshop on branding and marketing your key product – yourself! 
Founded by GIA and the 24 Karat Club of Southern California, Career Fair is sponsored in part by National Jeweler magazine, Jewelers of America, the JCK International Publishing Group, Professional Jeweler magazine, the Johnson Family Diamond Cellar, and Samuel Gordon Jewelers.

If you are an employer interested in participating in Career Fair 2001, contact GIA’s Career Services office at 800-421-7250, ext. 4255. If you are a job seeker wishing to attend, call GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair hotline at 800-421-7250, ext. 4100 or visit www.careerfair.gia.edu.

GIA President Bill Boyajian was the featured guest June 16 on the nationally broadcast program Fightback, hosted by noted consumer advocate David Horowitz. In introducing Boyajian, Horowitz, spoke of his admiration for GIA’s work on behalf of consumers. He told the audience they would receive expert information from GIA’s President on diamonds, how to buy diamonds confidently and wisely, and how to avoid problems. Horowitz also noted GIA’s worldwide expertise and stature in education, research, and laboratory services, especially regarding diamonds. He recommended GIA’s unique online tutorial, “How to Buy a Diamond,” and encouraged listeners to call GIA and visit the Institute’s Web site for more information.

“David Horowitz is highly respected for his role in helping consumers,” said Boyajian. “So we were very pleased to have the opportunity to participate in his program and extend GIA’s education and consumer awareness on gems and gemology to that of large audience.”

Jodie Diegel, GIA’s Midwest recruiting specialist, will present a free seminar entitled “The Nature of Precious Metals” on Tuesday, June 26 from 7 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. at Harper Junior College at 1200 W. Algonquin road in Palatine, IL. The event will feature information from the Institute’s popular course, Jewelry Essentials.

“Whether you’re a high school or college graduate, someone seeking a new career, or you’re just interested in learning about jewelry as a hobby, this course is a definite must,” said Diegel. The Jewelry Essentials course is specially designed for career-oriented sales associates who are interested in increasing their earning power and credibility, and it’s one in three of GIA’s Distance Education courses needed to earn the Accredited Jewelry Professional diploma (A.J.P.).

For further information, contact Jodie Diegel at 847-858-4421, or email her at Jodie.Diegel@gia.edu.

GIA is pleased to announce the formation of a new GIA Alumni Association California Gold Coast Chapter, which is set to kick off its first meeting on Wednesday, June 27, at the Elephant Bar Restaurant in Goleta, California. It will support GIA Alumni and gem and jewelry professionals in and around Santa Barbara, California.
“We are very excited to open up a new chapter in Santa Barbara,” said Patrick Ball, G.G., director of GIA’s Alumni Association. “We like being able to provide GIA’s gemological knowledge and expertise to as many members of the trade as possible.”

The California Gold Coast Chapter will bring the total number of GIA Alumni Association chapters to more than 35, serving thousands of gem and jewelry professionals around the world.
Members of the Santa Barbara Watchmakers and Jewelers Guild merged with GIA Alumni to form the new chapter. The Guild honored GIA Chairman of the Board Richard T. Liddicoat, G.G., in 1999 for his contributions to the gem and jewelry industry.

“With a GIA Alumni chapter, we can provide members with the latest updates on gem treatments, technology, hands-on training, and the latest information directly from the source, GIA,” Ball said.
Dr. James Shigley, director of GIA Research at the Robert Mouawad Campus in Carlsbad, California, will present “Identifying HPHT-Treated Diamonds” during the inaugural meeting. He will address GIA’s latest research findings on identifying High Pressure/High Temperature (HPHT) treated diamonds, a challenge facing members of the industry. GIA’s Research department has made the study of HPHT treatments a top priority since General Electric first made the announcement about the process in 1999.

All GIA Alumni chapter meetings are open to the public. For more information on attending this event, contact California Gold Coast Chapter President, Dennis Lesowsky, G.J., at (805) 693-5464.

GIA made its debut at the 2001 Del Mar (CA) Fair last week, with an informative and innovative exhibit highlighting Southern California’s pegmatite gem treasures. The display is part of the Gem and Mineral Show at the Fair, which runs through July 4.

Thousands of fair-goers have already stopped by the Gem and Mineral Show, where GIA’s exhibit illustrates the geology and mining of pegmatites, which host San Diego’s most famous gemological treasures. Many of the world’s important gemstones, such as aquamarine, topaz, and tourmaline, originate in pegmatites. The more colorful crystals make spectacular mineral specimens or are cut into gemstones for jewelry. The most common gem-quality mineral found in San Diego County pegmatites is tourmaline, which may be pink, green or “watermelon” - pink in the center and surrounded by a green rim.

Mary Rivers and friend John Nehezpa, both of Pennsylvania, were at the Fair last week and stopped by to visit the exhibit, which displays both natural and cut pieces of tourmaline, citrine, and quartz. “When I walked in and saw these exhibits, it looked like we were in a museum,” said Rivers, peering at the various objects inside GIA’s display. “This is just so pretty. I am amazed at how beautiful and different the cut pieces are from the raw.”

GIA’s exhibit, created by the Institute’s museum staff, is featured at the Gem and Mineral Show in the Mission Tower at the Fair, which has been a San Diego tradition for 123 years. The exhibit is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, and until 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. On July 4, the final day of the fair, the Mission Tower will stay open until midnight.

The Gems & Gemology subscription special ends at midnight, June 30. Subscribe for one year at $69.95 (U.S.) or $80.00 (outside the U.S.) and receive the double-issue “Retrospective of the '90s” free. Get a full year of G&G's cutting-edge research, as well as exclusive reports from the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory and around the world – plus a comprehensive review