The De Beers Diamond Trading Company (DTC) reportedly allocated one of its largest offerings ever – possibly $800 million – to the Aug. 22–26 sight.

A number of the DTC’s 95 clients allegedly received goods in excess of their pre-arranged allocations, called Intentions to Offer. This is despite the fact that the U.S. market, which absorbs about half the world’s diamond jewelry, appears to be slowing in the middle- and lower-priced segments. In addition, the DTC usually concentrates its largest sights in the first quarter of the year, although automated diamond manufacturing processes have cut time to market from months to weeks in recent years.

In India, where the vast majority of mass-market diamonds are manufactured, demand remains slow, as executives there have scaled down expectations for the U.S. holiday season.

One source close to the sights said DTC clients were happy with the large sight, and despite the lower expectations, “there are no major concerns about the coming season.”

High gasoline prices and rising interest rates in the face of record consumer debt levels continue to raise concern among retail analysts. An International Council of Shopping Centers (ICSC) survey found that high energy costs have caused 58% of U.S. households to reduce their discretionary spending. That is up considerably from 50% in a similar survey in early July and 40% in March of this year and May of 2004. In addition, the ICSC weekly chain store sales report showed its third straight decline during the week of Aug. 15. Although retail sales remain comfortably ahead of last year’s levels, a number of major merchandisers have voiced concern that sales will fall below this year’s plans.

DIAMONDS: The greatest potential for new diamond sources remains in Africa, where peace and sweeping political changes are combining to redraw the diamond map.

In Angola, which contains the largest number of known kimberlites, BHP Billiton announced a potentially significant diamond find at an exploration site called Alto Cuilo. Analysts say the site, which contains both alluvial and kimberlite deposits, could produce some $500 million worth of diamonds yearly, once mining hits full stride in 3–5 years.

BHP Billiton’s junior partner in the venture, Petra Diamonds of South Africa, operates small diamond mining ventures in South Africa and Sierra Leone. One of the world’s largest mining companies, BHP Billiton also owns the Ekati Diamond Mine in northern Canada.

In an effort to establish greater control and accountability over alluvial diggings on the continent, as well as increase the returns to independent miners, a coalition of mining companies, banks, and non-governmental organizations have formed the Diamond Development Initiative. The group will convene in November to begin developing programs to help independent miners form producers’ cooperatives to market their diamonds. There are an estimated one million independent diamond diggers in Africa and South America. Not only are they vulnerable to exploitation, but the unregulated flow of such goods often goes into illicit hands, according to non-governmental organizations.

COLOR: “Thanks to the fashion trend towards green in 2005, people are turning back to emeralds,” Israel Eliezri of Colgem Ltd. noted in a recent Jewellery News Asia report. “The emerald market had been depressed for a while because of the market’s confusion caused by emerald enhancement. However, with proper disclosure and better education, the trade has started to understand that certain color enhancements do not harm the intrinsic value of emeralds; rather, they help improve the color and appearance of the stones.”

Emerald dealers reported that sales to the U.S. market increased in the first quarter of 2005 compared with the same period in 2004. Overall, demand is strong for lower-quality stones, but not for the very low-end goods. Dealers noted that demand is shifting to better quality.

Russell Shor
Senior Industry Analyst

McClure and Kammerling’s 1995 report, the third G&G article on fracture-filled diamonds, reviewed the identifying characteristics that could be detected with magnification. It also provided a free-standing wall chart (22.5 in. × 17 in.) that illustrated many of these features, such as the orange and blue “flash effect” colors observed in a filled break when the stone was rocked back and forth in darkfield or brightfield illumination. The chart also demonstrated several microscopic features in unfilled diamonds that might be confused with fracture filling.

Today, every jeweler and gemologist can expect to encounter fracture-filled diamonds. Ten years after its publication, the Summer 1995 McClure and Kammerling article and accompanying chart remains a practical, authoritative guide to identifying filled diamonds.

To order the Summer 1995 issue or the illustrated chart, click here or contact Circulation Coordinator Debbie Ortiz. Call toll-free 800-421-7250, ext. 7142. Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 760-603-4000, ext. 7142.

Although most synthetic sapphires are blue, they may be seen in almost all colors. Yellow or orange corundum is known as “golden sapphire” in the trade.

Synthetic sapphires have essentially the same physical and optical properties as their natural counterparts. However, natural sapphires have a much greater variety of distinctive inclusions than synthetics. Thus, magnification is usually the most useful method for making a separation.

Flame-fusion synthetics are the fastest, easiest, and least expensive synthetic sapphires to produce, and they are by far the most abundant on the market. Since weight retention is not an issue, fashioned flame-fusion synthetics are often well proportioned. However, because of their low value, they are typically cut and polished rapidly, so expect to see lower-quality finishing, with polish lines on facet surfaces.

Curved color banding is a distinctive internal feature of flame-fusion synthetic yellow sapphire. This is never seen in natural sapphires, which have straight or angular growth structures. Flame-fusion synthetic sapphires might also contain high-relief gas bubbles, which are never seen in untreated natural sapphire.

Flame-fusion synthetic yellow and orange sapphires are colored by nickel rather than iron. Thus, they lack the iron-related absorption bands at 450 nanometers (nm) in their visible spectrum that are typical of natural material. The presence of a line at 690 nm and absence of iron lines strongly suggests a synthetic, as does a 460-nm cutoff. Flame-fusion synthetic orange sapphires might have only thin lines in the red, including a fluorescent (emission) line at 690 nm that is caused by chromium.

Differences in reaction to ultraviolet radiation can be helpful, though they are not definitive. Flame-fusion synthetic yellow and orange sapphires are either inert to long- and short-wave ultraviolet light, or they fluoresce weak red to orange-red. Most natural yellow sapphires are inert, but Sri Lankan sapphires can fluoresce a beautiful orange-yellow color.

Synthetic sapphires produced by pulling processes usually lack distinctive inclusions. This makes it more difficult to separate them from high-quality natural material. Curved growth banding is usually present but harder to see; diffused light, a blue filter, or immersion can make it more visible. Gas bubbles are rarely present.

Synthetic corundum produced by the floating-zone process is rare. While a few floating-zone synthetics are present in jewelry manufactured between the 1970s and the 1990s, this is an expensive method that is rarely used today. Synthetic sapphires grown by this process might have a swirled appearance and gas bubbles that are visible with magnification.

Step-by-step procedures to identify natural, synthetic, and imitation gems are taught in GIA’s Gem Identification course. Click here for information on this course and other GIA programs.

GIA representatives will be making presentations on the new GIA Diamond Cut Grading System in many domestic and international locations over the next few months. They will provide a summary of the new cut system, along with information on GIA’s new grading reports, cut software, and other support materials. The GIA Diamond Cut Grading System was announced on Aug. 1, 2005, and each new GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Dossier® for standard round brilliant diamonds on the GIA D-to-Z color scale will include a cut grade starting Jan. 1, 2006. Click here to see the entire list of scheduled presentations, along with details on the time and place for each one.

As higher demand for luxury goods leads to greater expansion in the industry, more and more companies are signing up to recruit at GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair to find the talented people they will need to fill a variety of positions.

With the Oct. 7 Carlsbad event drawing near, firms like Tiffany & Co., Zale Corp., and Robbins Bros. continue to commit their participation. When the doors open at 8:00 a.m., many more firms will be on hand to meet the hundreds of qualified and passionate candidates who are ready to get started on their new careers.

The seven-hour event, which is also an open house, is a perfect venue for networking, recruiting, and publicizing a jewelry business.

“More jewelry companies and candidates should take advantage of GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair, one of the industry’s best job networking events,” said Suzanne DeVries, president of Diamond Solutions Staffing Inc., a national placement service that focuses exclusively on the jewelry industry.

GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair is also a great place for industry newcomers to learn how the industry works and its exceptional career opportunities.

This year, JCK International Publishing Group Publisher and Career Fair's prime sponsor Mark Smelzer will help open the event. In addition, Manpower Inc. Executive Director Phil Blair, The Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California President Vince Owens, GIA Marketing and Public Relations Vice President Kathryn Kimmel, and GIA Education Vice President Brook Ellis will also help in welcoming the partipants at the opening seminar.

With GIA President Bill Boyajian moderating, participants will get an insider’s view into the latest employment trends and job opportunities during the Working to Win panel. Industry leaders, including Erica Courtney, president of Erica Courtney Inc., and Toros Z. Kejejian, chairman and CEO of Tycoon, will share their insights.

The event’s seminars, devoted to helping people define their career goals and market themselves, will include tips on starting a new business and surviving as a designer. In a new panel this year, What Happens After "You’re Hired!", recent GIA Graduates will discuss how they are turning their dream jobs into accelerated careers.

Attendees can be mentored by industry VIPs during free career coaching sessions. Designers like “Iceman” Chris Aire, a hot new jeweler to the stars, will sit down one-on-one with participants to answer questions and offer tailored career advice.

Everyone is welcome – from those looking for career opportunities to those who simply want to tour the Institute’s gorgeous 18-acre campus overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

“Career Fair gives us the opportunity to meet so many fresh and qualified candidates who are passionate about jewelry,” said Rahul Kadakia, senior vice president of Christie’s and a GIA Graduate Gemologist. Kadakia is a former Career Fair participant who landed his first industry job through the event.

“While many industries are hiring for jobs, the gem and jewelry industry is looking for passionate people who want to find their dream career,” Kimmel said. “And Career Fair is the place where jewelry firms come to find the most talented and passionate people to launch their careers.”

To learn more about GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair click here, call GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair hotline at 800-421-7250, ext. 4100, or e-mail careerfair@gia.edu. To register as a recruiter, contact Kimberly Northup at 760-603-4195. Prime sponsor for GIA’s Career Fair in Carlsbad is JCK International Publishing Group.

An additional nine companies from the gem and jewelry industry have made sponsorship contributions to support GIA’s 4^th International Gemological Symposium Aug. 27–29, 2006.

These recent gifts, totaling $201,500, will help cover costs of the event, in which gemologists, jewelers, and industry leaders from around the world will convene in San Diego, California, to discuss the latest industry issues and set forth plans for its future. The event’s theme is “Navigating the Challenges Ahead.”

ABN AMRO Bank and The VNU Jewelry Group jointly contributed $75,000 as gold level sponsors to support the Sunday Opening Session and Keynote address. Both companies have previously given financial donations to GIA totaling more than $700,000 combined.

“GIA provides invaluable service to the industry through its ongoing research and education,” said Anna Martin, ABN AMRO Bank senior vice president. “Symposium will bring industry leaders together to discuss issues that are important to the industry's growth. It is mutually beneficial that we work together to support the future of our industry.”

Silver level sponsors include IJB Jewelers Block Insurance and Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co., which gave $30,000 and $20,000, respectively, in support of the Symposium “War Rooms.” Rapaport will sponsor the Cyber Café with its $25,000 contribution.

Bronze level sponsors include: Fancy Collection, with $10,000 for the Speaker Room and an additional $5,000 for the Monday Morning Break; Israel Diamond Institute and “EIGHTERNITY,” a division of K.R. Gems & Diamonds International, with $10,000 each for the Monday Luncheon. The Israel Diamond Institute gave an additional $7,500 for water bottles. Kazanjian Bros., Inc. donated $8,000 for grants to support presenters at the GIA Gemological Research Conference, which will immediately precede Symposium on Aug. 26 and 27.

Companies that have made major financial gifts of at least $100,000 for Symposium and the Gemological Research Conference to date include The Steinmetz Group of Companies; JCK Magazine; Charles & Colvard, Ltd.; Dimexon Eurostar together with Hearts On Fire; SAFDICO USA Inc.; and Philippe Diamond Corp.

“The widespread industry support for Symposium is clearly demonstrated by the many generous gifts we are receiving,” said Kathryn Kimmel, GIA vice president of Marketing and Public Relations and a co-chair of the event. “This is very important in enabling us to ensure that the event is an enjoyable and very beneficial experience for everyone who attends.”

To learn more about how to contribute to GIA’s 4^th International Symposium, contact Institute Relations Director Jane Lynch, or call 760-603-4114. Click here to learn more about Symposium.

A telescope-inspired ring made of gold, black onyx, jadeite, and diamonds designed by Hong Zheng of China prevailed in this year’s 29^th annual George A. Schuetz Design Competition. This marks the first time a Chinese national has won the contest dedicated to the best in men’s jewelry designs.

Once a special lecturer to the Jewelry Institute of China’s Geology University, Zheng said his design was inspired by one of his favorite shapes as a child, the telescope.

“It reflects the longing and aspiration to the world,” he said. “The design is neat, simple, and smooth. Cylindrical stone cutting is used throughout. It shows the gentle side of masculinity, tinged with Oriental charm.”

Phillip Weeks, contest administrator and financial aid manager at GIA, said the 105 entries submitted this year doubled the 2004 total. “Since the applications are now offered on GIA’s Web site, it’s much easier to send in designs,” he said.

“I am very pleased that my design has received affirmative recognition from GIA, and I would like to take part in future design contests held by GIA so as to enhance academic exchange between China and the U.S.” he added.

Second-place winner Hyun Jung Min of Seoul designed a tie tack and cuff links made of black onyx, white and yellow gold, and melee diamonds. She is a recent graduate of GIA’s Jewelry Design program.

Soroo Park, a Korean native working with Harry M