An article in Fortune Magazine caught my attention and interest some time ago. Titled “God & Business,” the article appeared in the July 9, 2001 issue; its theme is that spirituality is spreading in the workplace. But don’t worry. I’m not going to preach to you. Rather, I would like to share some of the principles pointed out in the article, because they identify a fundamental concept in which I strongly believe: the importance of treating people fairly and with dignity.

One of the things that attracted me to GIA more than 26 years ago, as a young student right out of college, was the warmth and character of then-President, now-Chairman Richard T. Liddicoat. He was, and is, deeply human. He demonstrated qualities that, day in and day out, fostered a culture of kindness and respect for all people: students, staff, and clients alike. It was an uncommon trait during an era when many business and academic leaders seemed to embrace the old “command and control” mentality of personnel management.

I believe it is this respect for human dignity that people crave today.  Whether it is a “movement” toward spirituality, as identified by the Fortune article, or a consciousness among people that the workplace should embrace the values that we cherish in our homes and houses of worship, only time will tell.

Could it be that maturing Baby Boomers, only now coming to grips with their mortality, are more open to spiritual concepts? Could it be that Generation Xers, now fully a part of the rank and file and even management of many companies, are demanding more life balance than their predecessors? Could it be that this rise in consciousness – that a workplace where one spends the majority of his or her day should be conducive to kindness, respect and human dignity – is now a prerequisite for people considering employment opportunities? I hope so.

In an increasingly impersonal world, a positive, nurturing environment stands out as an oasis in an otherwise barren landscape.  This is the kind of environment we try to foster at GIA.  I hope it is the kind you seek – and seek to create – in your workplace, too.

In the January 28 special edition of the GIA Insider, we issued a preliminary report on our observations of several samples of the new orange to orangy pink and orangy red corundum that is being produced in Thailand by treating rubies and sapphires from various localities. In that report, we focused on the surface layer of orange color that is present to varying depths in many of these stones.

To view that report, please click here.

Testing of three known-treated samples by electron microprobe analysis revealed very simple major-element chemical compositions; the results did not show any systematic chemical variations related to color zoning.

Because concentrations of certain elements at levels lower than those that can be recorded with a microprobe could be responsible for the color alteration, we subsequently performed analyses using more sensitive techniques: laser ablation - inductively coupled plasma - mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) and secondary ion mass spectrometry (SIMS). The new data obtained provided significant information regarding the possible cause of the color layers produced by this treatment process.

For the new analyses, we used the same three sapphire pre-forms that had been cut in half for the microprobe analyses. The spots analyzed by all three methods were lined up from the rim to the center of the sapphire (figure 1, for example, shows the actual positions of the spots analyzed by LA-ICP-MS on sample no. 39402). 

LA-ICP-MS is one of the most sensitive analytical techniques in chemistry, particularly for “heavy” elements (i.e., those with high atomic weights) such as platinum, gold, and uranium.  However, it is not always accurate for “light” elements such as lithium, beryllium, and boron.
 
Our LA-ICP-MS analyses (conducted at Boston University) looked for a large number of elements, including alkalis, transition metals, and rare earths. However, only Mg, Ti, V, Cr, Ni, and Ga were present in detectable (trace) amounts (see table 1). [NOTE: You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view these files. To download, please click here.] For almost all of these elements in all three stones, the concentrations were higher near the surface and decreased gradually toward the center. Only sample no. 39403 showed no change in Mg and Ti over the distance tested.
 
To confirm these variations in trace-element concentrations, as well as to measure those light elements that might not be reliably analyzed by LA-ICP-MS (e.g., Be), the same three sapphires were tested using SIMS at the Evens East Analytical Laboratory in East Windsor, New Jersey. SIMS analysis is very sensitive to both light and heavy trace elements, because the “background” (interference from other charged particles of the same or similar masses) is close to zero. Similar to LA-ICP-MS, the SIMS method requires removal of a small amount of material from the surface of the stone.  However, the amount is much less than that consumed in laser ablation. We had the elements Na, Mg, K, Ca, Ti, Cr, Fe, Ga, and Be measured because some are known trace elements for corundum (Ti, Cr, Fe, Ga) and others were suggested to us as possible contributors to the cause of this color.

The SIMS results proved to be quite interesting (table 2). Although some chemical variation from the rim to the center was detected for all the elements, the most pronounced variation was seen in beryllium, which occurred in moderately high concentrations near the rim and decreased substantially toward the center of each of the three stones (figure 2). In fact, SIMS consistently recorded 20 to 30 times more Be near the surface than in the center of each of the three samples.

The SIMS results strongly suggest that beryllium was diffused into the corundum lattice from the surface. The diffusion may be occurring as a collateral effect of the heating process and the “packing chemicals” used, or it may be the result of directly adding a beryllium feed source in the heating process. Beryllium atoms are relatively light in atomic weight and small in size. Furthermore, although Be can combine with oxygen, it does not do so by forming an anion species — such as (SiO₄)^2- or (BO₃)^3- — which would significantly limit the diffusion speed and thus the diffusion distance within a given time. For these reasons, it is possible for beryllium to migrate readily into the host corundum at the high temperatures used to treat these corundums. Another but less likely possibility is that the beryllium is intrinsic to the corundum and is actually migrating toward the surface during the cooling process. This is a scenario that we are exploring as we test more samples.

In summary, the data obtained in this investigation strongly suggest that something is being added to the corundum to account for the surface-related orange color layers. Additional research is needed to confirm these results, and it is our intention to test more samples from a variety of sources to get a more complete understanding of the process involved.

Editor’s Note: This report was prepared by the following GIA Gem Trade Laboratory researchers: Tom Moses, Vice President of Identification Services; Wuyi Wang, Research Scientist; Shane McClure, Director of West Coast Identification Services; Matthew Hall, Analytical Equipment Supervisor; and John I. Koivula, Chief Research Gemologist.

GIA presented a check for $43,000 to former New York Mayor Rudolph Giuliani on Feb. 5 as a donation to the Twin Towers Fund for victims of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. It was one of three donations from GIA, totaling nearly $130,000, to three relief funds established to assist victims of the attacks. The donations represent the net proceeds from contributions to GIA’s annual League of Honor Founders Dinner held in New York last October.

GIA’s League of Honor Dinner is held annually to honor those who contribute to the Institute’s education and research programs on behalf of the gem and jewelry industry. Proceeds from the event itself provide additional funding toward GIA’s nonprofit mission. This year, however, GIA felt compelled to dedicate the event’s net proceeds to an even greater purpose, said the Institute’s President, William E. Boyajian. “GIA has strong ties to New York City, both through our education and laboratory services in Manhattan, and also because of our long experience in working with so many friends and supporters in the jewelry industry there, so we felt it was especially important to assist the relief efforts in a substantial way,” he said.
 
GIA’s Chief Development Officer, Linda Ellis, said the three funds selected to receive the Institute’s contributions were the Twin Towers Fund, established by then-Mayor Giuliani for families of members of the uniformed services of New York, The Families of Freedom Scholarship Fund, an education fund, and the September 11th Fund, for victims and families. “We were deeply touched by the great outpouring of support from industry leaders worldwide who helped celebrate GIA’s 70th anniversary while contributing to this important cause,” said Ellis.

To view a full size image of the check presentation, please click here.

Valentine’s Day jewelry sales experienced a last-minute spurt to produce higher numbers than last year, according to an industry analyst. Ken Gassman, of the Jewelry Industry Research Institute, said that rising consumer confidence, signs of an improving economy, and a desire to be closer to loved ones is behind the increase, which he estimates at two to four percent. These positive numbers should continue through the year, he predicted, for several reasons:  The number of engagements and weddings will likely rise; jewelry is a “feel good” product; retail jewelers and De Beers’s Diamond Trading Company have increased advertising; discretionary dollars are veering away from travel and into jewelry; and national chains are offering strong incentives such as discounts and zero percent financing.

Overall, January’s retail sales were much stronger than expected, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce. Non-auto sales rose 1.2%, with clothing and accessories (including jewelry) showing a 2.5% increase. Analysts view this increase as a promising sign that a recovery from the recession is underway.

They do warn, however, that retail sales have remained resilient through most of the recession, so the economy cannot expect a “bounce” from pent-up demand.

Non-Governmental Organizations monitoring the conflict-diamond situation issued a Valentine’s Day “reminder” that, by their estimates, $500 million worth of diamonds continue to be sold to aid rebels in Angola, Sierra Leone, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. They applauded the diamond industry for its efforts in drawing up a rough-origin certification system to track diamonds to insure they are legitimately mined and exported, but they also expressed concern that the system is not meaningful yet because few governments have enacted requirements to put it in place.

De Beers’s rough diamond sales fell 21% to $4.45 billion last year, according to Managing Director Gary Ralfe. Ralfe also said that fourth quarter sales in the U.S. were much better than expected, rising 1% to 2% over 2000. Worldwide retail consumption of diamond jewelry fell 5% last year, with Japan showing the biggest decline, down 13%.

The Tucson shows (AGTA, GJX, and GLDA) were generally slow, though far from a disaster, with traffic down an estimated (by exhibitors) 10% to 15%. However, many exhibitors reported strong sales, especially in the medium and promotional qualities.

Buying was cautious, but the volume was reasonable. Most of the caution was focused on higher-end goods.

Warm colors – oranges, reds, and yellows – seemed to be the most popular for fashion-oriented pieces. Tanzanite remained in demand. Dealers at the various shows around the city reported that retailers were still buying the gem, though aggressively bargaining for discounts.

The new Centurion Show at the Westin La Paloma featured 83 high-market exhibitors.Organizer Howard Hauben said he was very pleased by the buying – excellent results for a first effort in a recession. A number of exhibitors confirmed his comments. Many of the retailers there were the top independents in their markets and reported having had a good year, despite the recession.

The diamond show in Tucson’s Manning House, in its second year, had light traffic, though most of the dozen exhibitors said they were generally pleased because they had made sales to new contacts.

A tanzanite summit held in Tucson on February 9 brought together officials of the Tanzanian government, the U.S. State Department, and industry leaders, through the organizing efforts of the American Gem Trade Association.

Most importantly from the trade’s perspective, Michael O’Keefe, East African Affairs Officer for the State Department, told the gathering that an official investigation concluded that tanzanite has not been used to fund terrorist activities beyond the 1995 incident reported in the news media.

The participants of the meeting issued the "Tucson Tanzanite Protocols," a document that commits tanzanite miners, as well as dealers in Tanzania and abroad, to adopt a system of written warranties to guarantee that all material, cut or polished, comes from officially sanctioned sources.

QVC and Zales buyers attended the meeting, but they could not comment as to whether or when they would again feature the gemstone in sales promotions.

Despite the apparently clean bill from the State Department, a report in The Wall Street Journal (Feb. 15) says three lawyers have filed a $1 billion wrongful death suit against a major New York tanzanite dealer and the Tanzanian Mineral Dealers Association on behalf of victims of the September 11 terrorist attacks. The suit alleges that proceeds from tanzanite sales were used to aid Osama bin-Laden’s al-Qaeda terror network.

Russell Shor, Senior Industry Analyst, GIA

GIA has announced the election of fine jewelry executive Michael J. Kazanjian and highly accomplished educator William B. Cottingham to the Institute’s Board of Governors. They are replacing departing board members Frank H. Maier, Jr. and James C. Clark. Kazanjian’s tenure began in December, while Cottingham’s started in February.

Kazanjian is currently chairman & CEO of Kazanjian Brothers, a wholesale fine jewelry business based in Beverly Hills, Calif. He has extensive experience in the jewelry industry, with an emphasis on buying and selling estate jewelry internationally. Kazanjian’s father and uncle were pioneers in the gem-cutting industry – establishing mines in Australia and factories in Thailand.

"I was very honored to be invited to serve on the GIA Board of Governors,” said Kazanjian. “I consider it a great privilege to join other industry leaders in helping this highly respected organization reach its goals.  I look forward to contributing in every way possible to GIA and its invaluable mission.”

Kazanjian joined Kazanjian Brothers in 1964. In addition, he is the executive director of the Kazanjian Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to serving programs for inner city youth. He is also a member of the Beverly Hills Rotary Club and Chamber of Commerce. He serves on the board of the University of Southern California (USC) Andrus School of Gerontology, and is a supporter of many charitable organizations in the Los Angeles area. Kazanjian attended Stanford University and USC, graduating from USC with a bachelor’s degree in finance.

While Kazanjian brings extensive industry experience to the board, Cottingham brings a broad educational background to his new position. Cottingham began his career as an instructor at Purdue University’s School of Mechanical Engineering in 1956. He achieved full professorship by 1966, and took over as head of the School of Mechanical Engineering in 1970. In 1975 he was appointed dean of academic affairs at the General Motors Institute (GMI), and within a year was named president of the Institute – a position he held until 1992.

Cottingham has served on the Distance Education and Training Council (DETC) Accreditation Commission as a member and, most recently, as chair of the commission. He has also served on the Lafayette Symphony Orchestra Board of Directors in Indiana, both as a member and president. Cottingham has a doctorate in Mechanical Engineering from Purdue University, where he also earned his bachelor’s and master’s degrees.

“I am very pleased to join this strong and accomplished board, and to assist in carrying out the mission of GIA. Specifically, I look forward to contributing to GIA’s already world-renowned educational programs,” said Cottingham.

Regarding these two new governors, GIA President William E. Boyajian said, "I warmly welcome Michael Kazanjian and Dr. William Cottingham to our Board of Governors.  Michael's extensive knowledge of gemstones and his business acumen in the wholesale fine jewelry trade, and Dr. Cottingham's distinguished scholarly background and experience in higher education will be instrumental in helping the Institute move forward in serving the gemological community and the public trust."

Two of GIA's most-respected authorities have been invited to speak at  the Bowers Museum of Cultural Art,  one of Southern California's finest museums. The lectures will be held in conjunction with an exhibit entitled, "Gems! The Art and Nature of Precious Stones." Set to be on display from Feb. 16- June 2, the exhibit features one of the world’s largest comprehensive private collections of gemstones by renowned collector Michael Scott.

GIA’s Museum Director Elise Misiorowski, also a noted jewelry historian and authority on estate jewelry, will present an exciting overview and comparison of early and late 20th century jewelry at 10:45 a.m. on Wednesday, Feb. 27 at the Bowers Museum. Misiorowski’s lecture, “The Turn of Two Centuries: Jewelry Then and Now,” will focus on the social aspects of jewelry wear and the typical gemstones in use during the elegant Edwardian Age and at the start of the 20th Century. This event is free and open to the public, and takes place in the conference center of the museum. Seating is limited. Please contact Nan Ducolon at 714-523-5293 for additional information or to reserve a seat.

John Koivula, GIA’s chief research gemologist and well-known author of gemological books, will give a fascinating presentation from 2-2:30 p.m. on Saturday, March 16 on the internal beauty of gemstones. His discussion, “Internal World of Gemstones,” will focus on gemstone inclusions and microscopy, and features samples of his award-winning photomicrographs. This event is free with a Bowers admission or membership; otherwise the cost for the lecture is $5. Koivula’s talk will be held in the FHP Healthcare/Robert Gumbiner Conference Center at the museum, where seating is limited.

GIA is a sponsor of the lecture series, which kicked off with a speech given by Bowers President Peter Keller on Jan. 23. Other speakers featured in the series include artist Bernd Munsteiner, collector Michael Scott, renowned gemology expert and author John Sinkankas, curator from the Smithsonian Institution Jeff Post, and silversmith artist John Marshall.

The Bowers Museum of Cultural Art is located at 2002 N. Main Street in Santa Ana, California. For additional information, or to reserve a seat, please call 714-567-3600, or visit the Web site at www.bowers.org.

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Today, GIA announced the availability of a single seat in its highly acclaimed Graduate Gemologist (G.G.) diploma program. With class beginning next week, there has never been a better time to begin a career in the exciting gem and jewelry industry. Whoever fills this position, will – in just six months – have the most prestigious designation in the industry.

Classes in Carlsbad have been full for months, as demand for the popular program has skyrocketed. That’s why this single open seat is such a rarity and expected to fill quickly, GIA Education officials said. Anyone interested in enrolling in the program, slated to begin Feb. 21, should call 800-421-7250, ext. 4001 today.

When you enroll in GIA’s On Campus Graduate Gemologist program, you benefit from limited class size and personalized instruction. And in only six months, you learn the grading and identification skills needed to become a buyer, appraiser, and senior professional in the jewelry industry. Completion of the program leads to GIA's prestigious Graduate Gemologist (G.G.) diploma, recognized throughout the world as the mark of a senior professional in the international jewelry industry.

In the G.G. program, you learn to grade diamonds directly from the creators of the International Diamond Grading System™. You also practice some of the same techniques GIA’s acclaimed experts use to detect treated, synthetic, and natural gemstones. In addition, to learning all the science and technical knowledge needed to work in the entire spectrum of diamonds and colored stones, you also learn techniques to increase sales. As a result, at the close of this program, you know how to do more than grade and identify diamonds - you know how to sell them.

GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad offers the perfect backdrop for your gemological education. Located on the rolling hillside above the glistening Pacific Ocean, the state-of-the-art campus is about 30 miles (50 km) north of San Diego and 86 miles (139 km) south of Los Angeles. With its sweeping view of the Southern California coast, students from all around the world are drawn to GIA’s world headquarters.

While GIA’s Graduate Gemologist program in Carlsbad is usually booked months in advance, this rare open slot in the Feb. 21 program is a good opportunity for anyone looking to study at the Institute’s world headquarters. To learn more about GIA’s Graduate Gemologist diploma program, go to www.gia.edu and click on “GIA Education.” You can also call GIA at 800-421-7250, ext. 4001.

Learn important gemological skills that can be applied on the job immediately with GIA’s industry acclaimed Extension classes. Dallas will be the site of approaching Extension classes in February; however, seats are filling quickly, so be sure to sign up now!

There are a few spaces still left for these classes:  NEW Loupe Grading, Feb. 23; NEW Advanced Gemology, Feb. 24; and Gem Identification, starting Feb. 25 and ending March 5. There are no seats left for the Diamond Grading Extension class in Dallas.

Two new Extension classes have been designed to meet the needs of the industry. Get hands-on practice grading diamonds like the professionals with a 10x loupe in the new Loupe Grading class. Update your knowledge of synthetics and treatments of rubies, sapphires and emeralds with the new Advanced Gemology class.

To enroll, or for more information about these or GIA Extension classes in other U.S. cities, call 800-421-7250, ext. 4001, e-mail eduinfo@gia.edu or visit GIA’s Web site, www.gia.edu, and click on Education.