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Friday, February 25, 2000
Volume 2, Issue 4
A bi-weekly electronic bulletin from the Gemological Institute of America – the world's foremost authority in gemology.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
In this issue:
February 25, 2000
Thoughts from the President: A Defining Moment
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This past Wednesday, I spoke to members of the Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO) at their semi-annual conference, which was held in San Diego. At their request, my presentation was titled "Branded, Pegasus and Processed: Are You Ready?"
I said that, in my view, a defining moment in gemology and in the industry happens only about once every decade, and that such a defining moment occurred on March 1, 1999.
For several weeks, the diamond trade stood still, in shock, because a newly announced "process" for improving the appearance of certain diamonds was purportedly "permanent," "irreversible," and "unidentifiable." Both the commercial and ethical implications were staggering.
Lazare Kaplan International and General Electric (GE) had announced a new joint venture called Pegasus Overseas Limited that would market diamonds with improved color, brilliance, and brightness -- the result of a new proprietary GE process. The formal introduction of this product signaled a new era--a defining moment--for the role of technology in the gem and jewelry industry.
The good news, however, is that now, almost one year to the day since the Pegasus announcement, the diamond industry is still strong, jewelers are coming off their best holiday season in years, and future prospects for diamond sales are as good as they've ever been.
The moral of this story is that cooperation, research, and good communication will win out over fear, anxiety, and panic. While we have yet to solve all the challenges that this and other new products may pose, we know that we are up to meeting the task. This, too, is "permanent" and "irreversible," yet eminently "identifiable."
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February 25, 2000
From Gems & Gemology: Russian Demantoid Garnet Update
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At this year’s Tucson gem shows, Gem News editor John Koivula noticed the availability of significant amounts of demantoid garnet from Russia’s Ural Mountains. According to the dealers, this historic area is again being actively worked. Most of the stones were small (less than one carat), as is typical of demantoid, but there were a number of fine-quality gems over 5 carats. The garnets ranged from yellowish green to a bright “emerald” green. In some of the stones, Mr. Koivula observed the characteristic “horsetail” inclusions radiating from chromite centers.
For more information on demantoid from the Ural Mountains, see “Russian Demantoid, Czar of the Garnet Family,” by W. R. Phillips and A. S. Talantsev, in the Summer 1996 issue of Gems & Gemology. In the current issue (Winter 1999), M. Krzmenicki describes the recent identification of a new inclusion in Russian demantoid garnet: diopside “needles.”
To learn more about Gems & Gemology or to subscribe contact the Subscriptions Manager, Debbie Ortiz mailto:dortiz@gia.edu or call toll-free (800) 421-7250 ext. 7142 or outside the US and Canada (760) 603-4000 ext. 7142.
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February 25, 2000
The Insider Gemologist: Detecting Commercially Available Synthetic Diamonds
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Question: Are synthetic diamonds commercially available and, if so,
can they be separated from natural diamonds?
Answer: Limited quantities of colored synthetic diamonds have recently entered the marketplace. The most common colors are deep yellow and brownish orange. This year at Tucson, some blue and a few red synthetic diamonds were also seen. Unlike natural diamonds, the color of many of these synthetic diamonds is moderately to highly saturated. It should be noted that the red synthetic diamonds get their color as the result of laboratory treatment after synthesis. Typical sizes for yellow synthetic diamonds are up to 1 ct. Other colors are occasionally seen as large as 0.75 ct. We believe that, because of the high cost of production, very few near-colorless synthetic diamonds have entered the jewelry market to date.
Through careful observation and gemological testing, currently available synthetic diamonds can be positively identified by a trained gemologist, regardless of the stones’ bodycolor and method of manufacture. The GIA Insider Gemologist recommends using one or more of the following gem-testing methods: magnification, ultraviolet fluorescence, spectroscopy, magnetism and strain. (Source: G&G, Winter 1995.)
TO BE CONTINUED: The various gem testing procedures used to separate natural and synthetic diamond will be discussed over the next few issues of GIA Insider.
To find out when GIA’s Detecting Synthetic Diamonds and Synthetic Moissanite seminar will be in a city near you, visit www.gia.edu, mailto:admissions@gia.edu, or call (800) 421-7250 ext. 4001 or (760) 603-4001.
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February 25, 2000
The Insider Gemologist: Detecting Commercially Available Synthetic Diamonds
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Question: Are synthetic diamonds commercially available and, if so,
can they be separated from natural diamonds?
Answer: Limited quantities of colored synthetic diamonds have recently entered the marketplace. The most common colors are deep yellow and brownish orange. This year at Tucson, some blue and a few red synthetic diamonds were also seen. Unlike natural diamonds, the color of many of these synthetic diamonds is moderately to highly saturated. It should be noted that the red synthetic diamonds get their color as the result of laboratory treatment after synthesis. Typical sizes for yellow synthetic diamonds are up to 1 ct. Other colors are occasionally seen as large as 0.75 ct. We believe that, because of the high cost of production, very few near-colorless synthetic diamonds have entered the jewelry market to date.
Through careful observation and gemological testing, currently available synthetic diamonds can be positively identified by a trained gemologist, regardless of the stones’ bodycolor and method of manufacture. The GIA Insider Gemologist recommends using one or more of the following gem-testing methods: magnification, ultraviolet fluorescence, spectroscopy, magnetism and strain. (Source: G&G, Winter 1995.)
TO BE CONTINUED: The various gem testing procedures used to separate natural and synthetic diamond will be discussed over the next few issues of GIA Insider.
To find out when GIA’s Detecting Synthetic Diamonds and Synthetic Moissanite seminar will be in a city near you, visit www.gia.edu, mailto:admissions@gia.edu, or call (800) 421-7250 ext. 4001 or (760) 603-4001.
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February 25, 2000
Update on War Room 2000: A Point/Counterpoint Forum in Basel
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Farber, Fortunoff, Grinberg, Levy, Mayer, Mehta and Shigley Debate the Question: “Has High Tech in the Industry Led to Low Trust Among Consumers and the Trade?”
Industry leaders Thomas Farber of Thomas Farber S.A., Esther Fortunoff of Fortunoff, Efraim Grinberg of Movado Group Inc., Harry Levy of Levy Gems Co., Stefan Mayer of Ringexperte Heinz Mayer, Dilip Mehta of Rosy Blue and Dr. James Shigley of GIA Research are scheduled to participate on the GIA GemFest Basel 2000 War Room panel. They will debate whether the introduction of high technology in the industry has led to low trust among consumers and the trade on Saturday, March 25, 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM, at the Basel, Switzerland Convention Centre.
Moderator Mark Cockle, editor-in-chief of Basel Magazine, will tap into the important topic of treatments, disclosure and responsibility.
“The information revolution has meant that individuals and companies have to react much faster than ever before,” Cockle said. “We hope that the seminars taking place throughout the show will help formulate opinions.”
War Room 2000 will be preceded by a Research Update presented by Dr. James Shigley, GIA’s Director of Research.
GemFest Basel, sponsored by Messe Basel, is free and open to the industry. Attendees who are members of the GIA Alumni and Associates will receive six Carat Points for attending. A GIA Alumni reunion and reception will immediately follow the War Room panel. For more information call Cindy Campman, special events manager at (800) 421-7250 ext. 4150 or (760) 603-4150 or mailto:ccampman@gia.edu.
For more information on GIA’s Alumni and Associates programs mailto:rmckenna@gia.edu or call (800) 421-7250 ext. 4145 or (760) 603-4145.
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February 25, 2000
GIA Announces the Launch of Jewelry Essentials
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This week, GIA announced the launch of Jewelry Essentials, the final distance education course needed to complete the Accredited Jewelry Professional (A.J.P.) diploma program. The groundbreaking Jewelry Essentials, together with GIA’s Colored Stone Essentials and Diamond Essentials, has been produced to help sales associates translate product knowledge into easy-to-learn benefits that sell virtually any piece of jewelry. Developed for career-oriented sales associates, GIA’s A.J.P. diploma program has been specially designed for quick learning, affordability and moneymaking results. Now, with the availability of all three Essentials courses, students can achieve full industry recognition as a GIA Accredited Jewelry Professional sooner than ever before.
For more information on GIA’s A.J.P. program or on GIA Education
mailto:admissions@gia.edu or call (800) 421-7250 ext. 4001 or (760) 603-4001.
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February 25, 2000
Help Wanted? Save the Date for GIA’s Career Fair 2000
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If you are an employer in the market for outstanding employees – it’s not too early to start planning for GIA’s Career Fair 2000. Now in its 10th year, this annual recruitment and career opportunity extravaganza is slated for Friday, July 28, at the Jacob Javits Center in New York City. To reserve a place as a recruiter or to find out more information about the event contact Anna Lisa Johnston, GIA’s career services manager mailto:ajohnston@gia.edu or call (800) 421-7250 ext. 4255 or (760) 603-4255.
Career Fair was co-founded by GIA and the 24 Karat Club of Southern California, and is made possible through the financial support of the following organizations: Prime Sponsors: National Jeweler and Jewelers of America, Inc. and Sponsor: JCK International Publishing Group.
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February 25, 2000
Career Opportunities: GIA is Hiring -- Call Today!
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Diamond Graders/Staff Gemologists (New York and Carlsbad)
Join our team of professionals. The GIA Gem Trade Laboratory is the world leader in diamond grading and is looking for detail-oriented, computer-literate team players. Microscope experience is a plus.
Join the internationally renowned team of over 700 professionals at GIA - the world’s foremost authority in gemology. The Institute is accepting resumes for positions in numerous departments at its World Headquarters in Carlsbad, California and at GIA's offices in New York City. We're looking for diamond graders, instructors, writers, senior library staff, administrative assistants - the list goes on. GIA is experiencing unprecedented growth. And we invite YOU to grow with us.
Contact GIA’s Human Resources departments in Carlsbad or New York by:
Telephone:
Carlsbad (760) 603-4054
New York (212) 221-5858 ext. 3111
FAX:
Carlsbad (760) 603-4099
New York (212) 997-7661
Or by Mail:
Carlsbad 5345 Armada Drive, MS 8, Carlsbad, CA. 92008
New York 580 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY. 10036
In Carlsbad you may also:
mailto:recruiter@gia.edu – submit resumes as MS Word documents please
or call the GIA Career Hotline at: (760) 603-4000 ext. JOBS (5627)
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February 25, 2000
Gems & Gemology: Erratum
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In the Friday, February 11, issue of GIA INSIDER (Volume 2, Issue 3), we reported in TUCSON 2000 GEM NEWS: FROM GEMS & GEMOLOGY that yellow-green gaspeite from Australia was being sold as "lemon chrysoprase." In fact, what was notable about this material was that it was being sold as gaspeite, and not under a trade name. Much of the material that had been sold as "lemon chrysoprase" in previous years was not gaspeite but a quartz-magnesite rock; this was described on page 217 of the Fall 1996 Gem News section of Gems & Gemology. Note also that all the freshwater pearls referred to in that Tucson 2000 item were cultured freshwater pearls.
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