By Jaime Kautsky

Gary Hansen knows gems almost as well as he knows museums.

He has three academic degrees in life sciences, including a Ph.D. in organic chemistry, so he understands how gemstones form deep within the earth and what makes them so valuable when they reach the surface. He also knows that once they're set in beautiful jewelry, people will wait in long lines to see them.

"Jewelry has an allure for people, and though very few museums in this country have exhibitions of fine jewelry, they are always very popular," he said. "A few years ago, a Paris museum hosted a diamond jewelry exhibit that had people waiting in the rain for two hours – at night – just to get in the door."

This 18K blackened gold brooch – with diamonds and blue and pink sapphires – is one four butterfly brooches gifted to the GIA Museum's permanent Collection by Dr. Gary R. and Barbara E. Hansen. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

So when Hansen, a former consultant for the Smithsonian Institution, the Carnegie Museum and the Sorbonne, bought several pieces of multi-gem pavé jewelry during a trip to Switzerland with his wife, Barbara, he thought of donating the collection to the GIA Museum.

"I love these pieces, and as a collection, we thought the students and public would enjoy them, too" he said. "They're one-of-a-kind, and most of them exemplify classic Victorian design."

Among the gifted items is a maple leaf jewelry suite of diamonds and tsavorite garnets and four butterfly brooches encrusted with diamonds, tsavorite garnets and blue and fancy sapphires. Two pins, the "Bird of Paradise" and "Wild Roses," featuring diamonds, tsavorite garnets, and pink, purple and blue sapphires, are also included.

Each of the pieces, which were produced in Austria within the last decade, is set in 18K blackened gold. One butterfly brooch features wings accented by two .36-ct. rose-cut diamonds, 38 round diamonds, 186 round pink sapphires, 164 round blue sapphires and two tsavorites for the eyes.

Particularly notable details are the butterflies' "en tremblant" wings, a French term describing jewelry with components that gently move on springs. The style was popular in 19th century jewelry and has experienced a resurgence in recent years, said Elise Misiorowski, director of the GIA Museum.

"From a historical perspective, it is wonderful to have examples of contemporary styles for posterity," she said. "The Hansen donation exemplifies the trend for multi-gem pavé and micro-pavé jewelry. It's derived from antique styles of past centuries, but has nuances that give it a fresh and youthful appearance."

Hansen's background as a chemistry professor – and alumnus of the South Dakota School of Mines – led him to mining ventures in Alaska, South Dakota and Canada, where he and his wife began to sell mineral specimens and gemstone rough and gained an interest in fine period estate jewelry. They founded their company, G.R. Hansen Precious Stones, in 1971.

"Special pieces like this serve a dual purpose: they're not only beautiful to display, but also serve as an educational tool," said Patricia Syvrud, In-Kind Gifts director. "GIA is unique in that we have the educational component of the Institute, which has access to the Museum's permanent Collection.

"Contemporary pieces are the antiques of the future, so donations like this help ensure that the GIA Museum is able to preserve these moments in jewelry history," she said. "We look forward to sharing these beautiful suites of jewelry with our students and the public for years to come."