Gems and Jewelry Timeline Brought to Light

By Amy Toosley

Published author and antique jewelry historian Christie Romero opened GIA’s 2004 Museum lecture series, “Gems and Jewelry Brought to Light,” before a record audience of more than 150 gem and jewelry enthusiasts March 17.

Her presentation, titled “Gems and Jewelry: A Timeline of Discoveries and Techniques,” drew from her experience as a gemologist and instructor. It gave a detailed timeline of gem discoveries and their influence on jewelry, dating from the 13th century B.C. through modern times. Romero, and several staff members of the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center at GIA, researched and found hundreds of intriguing examples of jewelry from these historic eras.

Romero talked about some of the earliest examples of jewelry featuring Chinese nephrite animal carvings, Sumerian lapis lazuli court jewelry, an Egyptian-carved carnelian cat and a cameo made from Indian tourmaline. She explained how pieces from the Greek, Roman and Etruscan empires were dramatically altered with the use of gemstones after the expansion of ancient trade routes in the third to first century B.C.

Crusaders from the Middle Ages, who carried gems back to Europe with them, also helped spread the use of gems in jewelry, said Romero, who also touched on gemstone discoveries in the Middle East, India, Burma and Ceylon.

Despite their growing popularity, gemstones were often erroneously identified by color or name throughout the ages, Romero said. The so-called Cleopatra’s Mines in Egypt produced what were thought to be the first emeralds around 330-300 B.C., but the gem was actually discovered 250 years before the empress’ birth. Other examples Romero gave include “chrysolite” (peridot), often confused with chrysoberyl; and Caesar’s Ruby, later identified as rubellite (tourmaline).

Chrysoberyls, amethysts and topaz from Brazil were also popular gems used in jewelry in the 1700s and diamonds became noteworthy as personal adornments by the 18th century, Romero said. The “Dresden Green,” the world’s largest natural green diamond (40.7 carats), was found in India in 1722 and a portrait of Maria Louisa of Parma depicts diamond jewelry in 1765.

Opals in Australia, demantoid garnets in Russia and tourmalines in the U.S. were all discovered in the 19th century. The biggest gemological news of the century, however, was the discovery of diamonds in South Africa in the late 1860s, which increased their demand.

Advances in technology greatly assisted gemological exploration in the 20th century. New gem discoveries included kunzite, tanzanite, benitoite and Paraíba tourmaline. Pink diamonds from the Argyle Mine in Australia were introduced in the 1980s.

Romero signed copies of Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd edition (Krause Publications, 2002), her guide to antique jewelry prices and identification, following her presentation.

“It must have taken Christie several months, perhaps years, to compose such a detailed and well-researched timeline,” said GIA Museum Director Elise Misiorowski. “It’s no surprise we had a sellout lecture.”