Retailer Shares First-Hand Experience of GIA’s Diamond Observation Test
By Susan Eisen

Editor’s Note: In conjunction with an intensive study of diamond cut, GIA has conducted extensive observation experiments for more than two years in an effort to scientifically explore the relationship between the proportions of a diamond and that diamond’s appearance. A vital part of this process consisted of asking members of the diamond and jewelry community to observe diamonds with various proportions in standardized environments, and then to rank those diamonds based on brightness, fire, and/or overall appearance.

GIA has collected nearly 50,000 diamond observations of more than 1,600 diamonds using 300 individuals. A significant number of these observations occurred at trade shows, such as the AGTA Show in Tucson, the JCK Show in Las Vegas, and the JA Show in New York, and at retail stores and the offices of diamond manufacturers. Individuals from all segments of the trade – manufacturers, brokers, dealers, retailers and consumers – observed diamonds, shared opinions regarding diamond cut and appearance in general, and expressed their desires and expectations regarding the results of the research from GIA.

To our knowledge, this is the largest number of diamond observations ever conducted for the study of diamond cut and diamond appearance. Observation results and feedback from the trade have been vital in GIA’s diamond research, and we would like to thank everyone who has taken time from their busy schedules to help us in this process. The practical knowledge and honest opinions that have been shared have been of tremendous value.

The following is a column written by Susan Eisen, a highly regarded member of the retail community, who participated in these observations.

I was invited to participate in GIA’s diamond observation tests on three separate occasions over the last year. As a business owner and a Graduate Gemologist, I believe education is a very important part of this industry. That said, I’m always interested in furthering my knowledge and helping to further the education of others. 

What I liked most about this experiment is that it’s not done in a laboratory setting. It’s conducted in real-life settings with the same type of lighting that is found in mostjewelry stores. I was given five diamonds at a time to examine, each with varying proportions, and asked to identify the diamond that appeared the most pleasing to me. I looked for the diamond that had the most brilliance, fire … life! This is exactly how a customer looks at diamonds.

What I gained most from participating in these tests is that they led me to rethink everything I have learned about diamond appearance and its relation to cut. I was totally shocked, for example, when I saw an old European cut that looked better and brighter than some of the ideal cuts! Just because I have been taught old European cuts don’t have the same fire as modern cuts, certainly doesn’t mean it’s right.

We are trained, as gem and jewelry professionals, that there are existing “rules” about diamond cut that shouldn’t be questioned, although it is fairly common knowledge that they are in large part based on historical trade practices and beliefs. However, I now see how the scientific exploration of these beliefs may lead us to see things in a new light.

I am continually re-evaluating my gemological assumptions since I participated in these observation tests, which, in turn, has had a beneficial effect on my sales approach. The real value of the tests is that they taught me there isn’t just one “right” way to cut a diamond to achieve an optimum appearance.

Ultimately, the results of the information gathered by GIA researchers will hopefully help customers gain trust in their feelings when it’s their turn to decide which diamond among the group they’re observing looks the most beautiful to them.

The challenge will be in the way the new information is delivered. It will have to be constructed in a way that’s easy for customers to understand and confirms their confidence in their jeweler and in the value of the diamond they are buying. Whatever new information is available to us will benefit the way we do business.