The decade of the ‘90s was one of unparalleled change and the inevitable challenges that result from it. Like other industries, the gem world was buffeted by an unprecedented pace of change, led by a veritable revolution in technology. The decade opened with what was perceived to be the very real threat of synthetic gem diamonds in the marketplace. Perhaps not ironically, it closed with another threat to the diamond industry: that of “unidentifiable” high pressure/high temperature annealing in diamonds.

Once again, protecting the integrity of natural, untreated gems dominated the arena of gemological concerns. It is perhaps, then, only fitting that the core objective of GIA and other research laboratories is the ability to differentiate between natural gems and laboratory-grown materials, as well as between natural and treated gems. The essence of gemology lies in our ability to identify these materials and to distinguish any artificially induced change. If rarity ever becomes a meaningless virtue, then the backbone of the trade—the magic of the natural gemstone—will be broken.

At the 1991 International Gemological Symposium, I said that the technology of gem identification would need to keep pace with the technology of gem synthesis and treatment. Our predictions about the proliferation of synthetic colored stones have come true, and new identification criteria continue to be developed to address them. Although synthetic diamonds still are not widely available, the decade saw advances in identification techniques and instruments which ensure that these synthetics can be detected when they are brought into a well-equipped gemological laboratory. GIA Chairman Richard T. Liddicoat said years ago that the production of gem-quality synthetic diamonds alone was perhaps the last great gemological barrier to be breached. Yet new barriers continue to be raised. Never has the role of the gemologist been more important.

And never has the challenge of treatments been so real. One only has to recall the fear that gripped the industry when the “filling” of surface-reaching breaks in polished diamonds became available. Or the devastation inflicted on the emerald market when the stability of new and even traditional fillers became questioned. Most recently, the discovery of “glass” fillings in heat-treated rubies has undoubtedly affected demand for these stones. Despite the overall growth of the jewelry market, this has not been an easy decade for gems.

  The ‘90s also saw the rapid development of computerized equipment in cutting factories, in quality analysis, and in advanced identification techniques. With the availability of greater computer power and programming ability, cut in diamond became an important focus. Researchers were able to analyze proportions scientifically in ways never before imaginable. Most interesting is how innovations in instrumentation have integrated with innovations in communication. During the ‘90s, the Internet revolutionized what faxes and other sophisticated telecommunications started in the ‘80s.

However, in addition to articles on synthetics, treatments, and new technologies, this Retrospective issue looks at the two “anchors” of gemology: the localities from which gems emerge, and the jewelry into which they are placed. Gem localities determine what will be available to jeweler and consumer alike, not only in terms of which gem materials, but also in terms of what colors, sizes, and qualities will be seen on the market. With cultured pearls in particular, the decade was highlighted by the influx of major amounts of multicolored goods from French Polynesia, golden and white cultured pearls from the South Seas, and myriad shapes and colors from China. And where would we be without the process of incorporating beautiful cut and polished gemstones into fine rings, necklaces, bracelets, and the like? How can we truly understand the priorities of our gemological agenda without knowing the end product: cherished jewels?

Let us not forget, too, the economic context in which all of these developments took place. The ‘90s began with a recession and were plagued by the Asian downturn later in the decade. Japan struggled through most of this period, while the United States enjoyed sustained economic growth.

The industry itself was affected by the way gems are mined, marketed, and merchandized. In diamonds especially, the mine-to-market process has been severely tested. Vertical integration and strategic alliances have placed pressure on sources, manufacturers, and dealers alike. In light of De Beers’s recently stated shift from controlling diamond supply to driving diamond demand, alternative channels will undoubtedly emerge. Another nascent factor is the so-called conflict diamonds issue, the desire to exclude from the marketplace diamonds that are sold to purchase weapons used to fuel civil conflict. It is surely difficult to know the future of this situation, despite the industry’s dedication to eradicating the problem.

In a sense, what we have provided in this Retrospective of the ‘90s issue is a snapshot of a decade—and a profound one at that—from mining and localities to treatments and synthetics to finished gemstones and jewelry. Our goal was to produce a valuable, thoroughly readable contribution to your gemological library: a decade of gemological knowledge brought together in a single journal. I hope you enjoy and benefit from this important issue.