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 La Peregrina
 

In what can only be described as dramatic foreshadowing, this, one of the finest examples of a pear-shaped pearl, took the name La Peregrina. Translation: The Pilgrim. And over its circuitous four-hundred and fifty year history, La Peregrina has certainly lived up to its name.

This large natural pear-shaped white drop pearl was reportedly discovered in the Gulf of Panama in the mid 16th century by a slave who was then given his freedom as a reward for this exquisite find. After that, it was presented as a wedding gift to Queen Mary Tudor by King Phillip II of Spain. It later passed to other members of Spanish royalty and also to France's infamous Bonaparte family. The son of French Emperor Napoleon III sold it to the British Marquis of Abercorn, who purchased it as a gift for his wife. However, because of the pearl's large size, it constantly fell out of its setting and was lost and found three times over.

Eventually, it was purchased in 1969 for $37,000 by actor Richard Burton as a Valentine's Day gift for his wife, Elizabeth Taylor, who also lost it temporarily. She found it to her surprise...in her dog's mouth.

La Peregrina is now set in an exceptional diamond, ruby, and pearl necklace, designed by Cartier and inspired by a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots. However, the diamond bail suspending the pearl is original to the piece.
 

Size: 17.56 x 25 mm

Weight: 202.28 grains (50.6 carats)
Lender: Elizabeth Taylor
Allure of Pearls, La Peregrina

 © Smithsonian Institution, Chip Clark


 Drexel Pearl
 

The Drexel Pearl is named after Mary S. Irick Drexel, a well-known philanthropist, passionate jewelry collector, and patroness of the arts. Born in 1868, Ms. Drexel commissioned Cartier of America to make the Belle Epoque pendant-brooch in 1905. She and her husband, George W. Childs Drexel, later became well known for their support of Drexel University.

Although the exact origin of this one-of-a-kind pearl is unknown, it was likely found in French Polynesia. Since the French became a protectorate of Polynesia in the mid-1800's, it is likely that fine pearls at this time made their way back to France, and leading jewelers such as Cartier incorporated them into jewelry.

In this stunning beauty, you can't help but notice its remarkable gray color and pink overtones.

The subtle gray bodycolor serves as the perfect background for the iridescent colors that result from the interaction of incident light with the pearl's nacre. Its exquisite color combined with its long symmetrical shape and smooth surface make it a rare addition to the collection.

It is extremely rare to see this type of world-class natural pearl being traded today, as their recovery is now virtually non-existent.

Top Pearl: 

Size: 12.85 x 12.90 x 10.30 mm
Weight:
 48 grains (12 carats)

Bottom Pearl: 

Size: 29.00 x 13.65 x 12.20 mm
Weight:
 135.2 grains (33.8 carats)

  Lender: Andrew Cohen S.A. of Geneva, Switzerland
Allure of Pearls, Drexel Pearl

 © Smithsonian Institution, Chip Clark

 

 


 Queen Mary Brooch
 

Circa 1925, this excellent example of conch pearl jewelry was passed by descent through the Royal Family. The Queen Mary Brooch first belonged to HM Queen Mary (1867-1953), the wife of HM King George V (1865-1936), and then to HRH, the Princess Royal (1897-1965).

Not all pearls have nacreous coatings and therefore aren't considered to be true pearls by gem purists. As a result, they'll put the term pearl in quotation marks when referring to the non-nacreous variety. The conch, which comes from a gastropod mollusk, is one such pearl. The natural conch pearl is one of the rarest pearls in the world.

The Queen Mary Brooch contains two pink conch pearls and both exhibit beautiful shape and quality. Their stunning appearance emanates from their deep, rich color and the silk-like sheen that flickers across their surface.

Under magnification the structures responsible for this sheen can best be described as flame-like.

Top Pearl:  

Weight: 99.56 grains (24.89 carats)

Bottom Pearl:  

Weight: 112.52 grains (28.13 carats)
  Lender: George Ruiz, P. Lancon S.A.
Allure of Pearls, Queen Mary Brooch

 © George Ruiz, P. Lancon S.A.

 

 

 

 


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